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Transforming old jeans into a backpack is a fantastic upcycling project! It's eco-friendly, budget-friendly, and results in a unique, sturdy bag. Denim is naturally durable, making it an excellent material for a backpack that can withstand daily use.
This detailed tutorial will guide you through making a roll-top backpack from old jeans. This design is popular for its adjustable capacity and modern look. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 15 inches (38 cm) tall (when rolled) x 12 inches (30 cm) wide x 4 inches (10 cm) deep, with the ability to expand taller when unrolled.
How to Transform Old Jeans into a Backpack (Roll-Top Style)
This project is suitable for an intermediate sewer, as it involves working with thick materials and multiple components.
I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials
Careful planning and material selection are crucial for a successful and durable backpack.
Old Jeans:
Quantity: 2-3 pairs of adult-sized jeans. Look for straight-leg or bootcut jeans, as they offer the largest continuous fabric panels. Sturdy, non-stretch denim works best. Avoid heavily distressed or ripped areas if you want a strong bag, unless you plan to reinforce them.
Preparation: Wash and thoroughly dry your jeans before cutting. This prevents shrinkage later and makes them easier to work with.
Lining Fabric (Recommended):
Type: Durable woven cotton (quilting cotton, broadcloth), canvas, or even ripstop nylon for a water-resistant interior.
Quantity: Approximately 1 yard (0.9 meters).
Preparation: Wash and iron.
Interfacing (Highly Recommended for Structure):
Type: Medium to heavy-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon 809 Decor Bond or a similar non-woven stabilizer). This will give your backpack body and help it hold its shape.
Quantity: Approximately 1 yard (0.9 meters).
Webbing for Straps & Handle:
Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide.
Quantity: Approximately 3 yards (2.7 meters) total (two 30-inch / 76 cm pieces for shoulder straps, one 12-inch / 30 cm piece for the top handle, and one 8-inch / 20 cm piece for the roll-top buckle).
Buckle & D-Rings/Ladder Locks:
Quantity: 1 side-release buckle (1.5 inches / 3.8 cm to match webbing). 2 D-rings or ladder locks (1.5 inches / 3.8 cm for adjustable straps).
Optional Hardware:
1 zipper (e.g., 6-8 inches / 15-20 cm) for an interior or exterior pocket.
Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A stronger, heavy-duty thread (like upholstery thread) is highly recommended for topstitching and stress points on denim.
Basic Sewing Tools:
Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 16 or 18, is essential for sewing through multiple layers of denim).
Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly.
Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.
Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.
Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen.
Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are invaluable for thick denim layers).
Iron and Ironing Board.
Seam Ripper (your most important tool!).
II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces
Accuracy in cutting is crucial for a well-shaped backpack. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.
1. Deconstruct Your Jeans
Lay your washed and ironed jeans flat.
Cut off the legs just below the crotch seam.
Carefully unpick (seam rip) the inseam (the inner leg seam) and the outer leg seam of both legs. This will give you large, flat pieces of denim. Press them flat.
Harvest Pockets (Optional): Carefully cut off back pockets, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance around the stitched edges. These can be added as exterior pockets.
Waistband (Optional): The waistband can be used for extra reinforcement or decorative accents.
2. Cut Main Backpack Panels
From your Denim (Exterior Fabric):
Main Body (Front/Back/Roll-Top): 1 piece, 30 inches (76 cm) tall x 13 inches (33 cm) wide.
Bottom Panel: 1 piece, 13 inches (33 cm) long x 5 inches (12.7 cm) wide.
Side Panels: 2 pieces, 15.5 inches (39.4 cm) tall x 5 inches (12.7 cm) wide.
Optional Exterior Pocket(s): Cut a rectangle from denim for a front pocket (e.g., 10" x 8" for a simple patch pocket).
From your Lining Fabric:
Main Body Lining: 1 piece, 30 inches (76 cm) tall x 13 inches (33 cm) wide.
Bottom Lining Panel: 1 piece, 13 inches (33 cm) long x 5 inches (12.7 cm) wide.
Side Lining Panels: 2 pieces, 15.5 inches (39.4 cm) tall x 5 inches (12.7 cm) wide.
Optional Interior Pocket: 1 piece, 10 inches (25 cm) tall x 12 inches (30 cm) wide.
From your Interfacing:
Cut pieces slightly smaller (e.g., 1/2 inch smaller on each side) than all corresponding denim exterior panels (Main Body, Bottom, Sides, and any Exterior Pockets). Also cut for the Interior Pocket.
Fuse Interfacing: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of all the corresponding denim and interior pocket pieces. Center the interfacing so there's a 1/2-inch border of fabric exposed on all sides for the seam allowance.
3. Prepare Webbing Pieces
Shoulder Straps: 2 pieces, 30 inches (76 cm) long.
Top Handle: 1 piece, 12 inches (30 cm) long.
Roll-Top Buckle Strap: 1 piece, 8 inches (20 cm) long.
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III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Use your denim needle for all denim sections and a walking foot if you have one. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam.
Step 1: Prepare Straps and Handle
Shoulder Straps:
Take one 30-inch shoulder strap webbing. Thread one end through one side of a D-ring or ladder lock, then stitch it back onto itself securely, creating a loop.
Repeat for the second shoulder strap and the other D-ring/ladder lock.
Take the remaining free end of each strap. Thread it through the corresponding D-ring/ladder lock on the other strap. This creates the adjustable strap mechanism. Do not stitch these ends yet.
Top Handle: Take the 12-inch webbing piece. Fold 1 inch (2.5 cm) under at each end and press.
Roll-Top Buckle Strap: Take the 8-inch webbing piece. Thread one end through one half of your side-release buckle. Stitch it back onto itself securely.
Step 2: Add Exterior Pockets (Optional)
If adding a patch pocket: Hem the top edge of your Exterior Pocket Panel (fold 1/2" twice, stitch).
Center the pocket on the bottom half of the Main Body Exterior Panel. Pin in place.
Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, very close to the edge. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack for durability.
Step 3: Attach Shoulder Straps and Top Handle to Main Body Exterior
Lay the Main Body Exterior Panel (30" x 13", with pocket if added) right side up. This is the piece that will form the front, back, and roll-top of your backpack.
Attach Top Handle: Measure 2.5 inches (6.35 cm) down from the center of one of the 13-inch (width) top edges. Place the ends of the 12-inch top handle webbing here, centering it. The handle loop points downwards. Securely stitch the handle ends to the panel within the 1/2-inch seam allowance.
Attach Shoulder Straps (Top): From the same 13-inch top edge, measure 2 inches (5 cm) in from each side. Place the free (unbuckled) ends of your 30-inch shoulder straps onto these marks, aligning the raw edges of the webbing with the raw edge of the panel. The strap loops point downwards. Stitch securely within the 1/2-inch seam allowance. These are the top attachments for your shoulder straps.
Attach Roll-Top Buckle Strap: From the same 13-inch top edge, measure 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) down from the center. Place the non-buckled end of your 8-inch roll-top buckle strap here, centered. Stitch securely.
Step 4: Assemble the Exterior Bag Body
Fold the Main Body Exterior Panel in half lengthwise, right sides together, aligning the two 30-inch side edges. Pin securely.
Stitch the seam down the entire length of the panel. This forms the main "tube" of your backpack. Press the seam open. This seam will be the center back seam of your backpack.
Take your Bottom Panel (13" x 5") and your two Side Panels (15.5" x 5").
Stitch one Side Panel to each of the 15.5-inch raw edges of the Main Body Exterior Panel. This creates the basic shape of the main compartment. Press seams open.
Now, stitch the Bottom Panel to the bottom of this assembled "tube." Align edges carefully and stitch all the way around. This forms the complete exterior shell of your backpack. Press seams open.
Tip: This is a crucial step. You're essentially sewing a rectangular bottom piece to a rectangular side piece, forming a box. Clip liberally around corners to ease the fabric.
Step 5: Assemble the Lining Bag
Optional Interior Pocket: If adding an interior pocket: Hem the top edge of your Interior Pocket Panel (10" x 12") (fold 1/2" twice, stitch).
Center the pocket on the bottom half of the Main Body Lining Panel, about 4 inches (10 cm) down from what will be the top edge. Stitch around the sides and bottom, reinforcing at the top corners. You can add vertical stitching to create compartments.
Follow the same steps as for the exterior bag (Step 4) to assemble the Lining Main Body, Side Lining Panels, and Bottom Lining Panel.
Crucial: Leave a 5-6 inch (12.7-15 cm) opening in the center of the bottom seam of your Bottom Lining Panel. This opening is essential for turning the backpack right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of this opening.
Step 6: Attach Shoulder Straps to Bottom of Backpack
With the exterior backpack shell turned right side out, turn the bottom of the backpack upwards.
Take the free, unbuckled ends of your shoulder straps.
Measure 2 inches (5 cm) in from each side of the bottom seam. Place the strap ends onto these marks, aligning them with the bottom seam. The straps should lie flat against the bottom of the bag.
Stitch the strap ends securely to the bottom seam, reinforcing heavily with a square and X stitch. This is a major stress point, so multiple lines of stitching are recommended.
Step 7: Combine Exterior and Lining
Keep the exterior backpack shell turned right side out.
Keep the lining backpack shell turned inside out.
Carefully insert the exterior backpack shell into the lining backpack shell, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.
Align the top raw edges of the exterior bag and the lining bag. Make sure all side seams match up. All straps and webbing of the exterior bag should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers.
Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the backpack opening.
Step 8: Sew Top Edge and Finish
Stitch all the way around the top edge of the backpack, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Clip curves/trim bulk: Clip into the seam allowance around any curves (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially where straps are attached.
Step 9: Turn Backpack Right Side Out & Close Opening
Reach into the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining (from Step 5).
Slowly and carefully pull the entire backpack (exterior, lining, straps – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze, so be patient and gentle.
Gently push out all the corners and seams with a point turner or a blunt object to make them crisp and well-defined.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Finally, push the lining down into the main backpack, ensuring it sits smoothly inside.
Give your finished backpack a good final press to remove any wrinkles and make it look crisp.
Step 10: Complete the Roll-Top Closure
Take the remaining half of your side-release buckle.
At the top edge of the backpack, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from the side seams, fold down the top edge about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) towards the back.
Attach the buckle to the top of the backpack, on the side opposite the sewn-on buckle strap from Step 3. You can either sew it directly to the bag or create a small webbing loop to secure it.
To close, simply roll down the top opening of the backpack a few times until it's snug, then clip the side-release buckle to secure it.
Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a durable and stylish DIY Roll-Top Backpack from Old Jeans! This unique bag is ready for your daily adventures, showing off your crafting skills and commitment to upcycling.
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