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A handcrafted handbag is a fantastic way to express your style and create a truly unique accessory. While there are countless bag designs, we'll focus on sewing a versatile and stylish structured tote bag with a lining and a flat bottom. This design is a great starting point for beginners, as it teaches fundamental bag-making techniques that you can apply to more complex projects later.
How to Sew a Stylish Structured Handbag
This guide will walk you through each step, from choosing your materials to adding those professional finishing touches. Precision in cutting and pressing as you go are key to a beautiful final result!
I. Planning Your Handbag
Before you even touch a pair of scissors, take a moment to plan your bag.
Size: How big do you want your bag to be? A medium-sized tote (around 12-14 inches wide) is practical for everyday use.
Fabric Choice: This is crucial for style!
Exterior Fabric: Choose a medium-to-heavyweight fabric for good structure and durability. Great options include canvas, duck cloth, denim, twill, home décor fabric, or even a sturdy linen blend. Avoid very thin or stretchy fabrics for your first bag.
Lining Fabric: A lightweight cotton or poly-cotton works well. This can be a fun contrasting color or print to add a pop of personality when you open your bag.
Strap Style: Will you use store-bought webbing for quick, sturdy handles, or will you make your own fabric handles from your exterior fabric?
II. Gather Your Materials
Having everything ready before you start will make the sewing process much smoother.
Exterior Fabric: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters)
Lining Fabric: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters)
Interfacing (Highly Recommended): 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of medium-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex or similar). This is essential for giving your bag professional structure and preventing it from being floppy.
Webbing for Handles: 2 to 2.5 yards (1.8 to 2.3 meters) of 1.5-inch (3.8 cm) wide cotton or polypropylene webbing. If making fabric handles, you'll need extra exterior fabric instead.
Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread that blends well with both your exterior and lining fabrics.
Basic Sewing Supplies:
Sewing Machine (a walking foot is helpful if your fabrics are thick or slippery)
Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
Quilting Ruler or Measuring Tape
Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
Plenty of Pins or Wonder Clips (clips are excellent for thicker fabrics)
Iron and Ironing Board
Seam Ripper (always keep one handy!)
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III. Plan Your Size & Cut Your Fabric
Let's aim for a versatile medium-sized tote bag. We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout this project.
Example Finished Size: Approximately 14 inches wide x 12 inches tall x 4 inches deep (35.5 cm x 30.5 cm x 10 cm).
Cutting Formulas (with 1/2-inch Seam Allowance):
Panel Width: Finished width + Finished depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 14" + 4" + 1" = 19 inches
Panel Height: Finished height + Finished depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 12" + 4" + 1" = 17 inches
Your Cut Pieces:
Exterior Fabric (Bag Body): Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 17 inches high.
Lining Fabric (Lining Body): Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 17 inches high.
Interfacing: Cut 2 rectangles, each 18 inches wide x 16 inches high (1 inch smaller on all sides than your exterior panels to keep bulk out of seams).
Webbing for Handles: Cut 2 pieces, each 25 inches (63.5 cm) long. (Adjust this length to your desired handle drop; 25-30 inches is a common comfortable range).
IV. Let's Start Sewing!
General Sewing Tips for a Clean Finish:
Press as you go! Ironing after each seam makes a significant difference in the final look of your bag.
Use plenty of pins or clips. This helps keep layers aligned, especially with thicker fabrics.
Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam to secure your stitches.
Increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., 2.8 - 3.2 mm) for topstitching; it often looks neater.
Step 1: Prepare and Attach Handles
Take one of your Exterior Fabric body panels. Lay it wrong side up on your ironing board.
Place one interfacing rectangle on top, centered, and fuse it to the wrong side of the exterior panel according to the manufacturer's instructions. Repeat for the second exterior panel.
Now, lay one Exterior Fabric body panel (with interfacing fused) right side up.
Measure in from each side edge along the top by about 4 inches (10 cm) and mark these points with chalk or a fabric pen. These are your handle placement guides.
Take one webbing handle. Align one end of the webbing with your mark on the top raw edge of the fabric. Ensure the rest of the webbing lies flat on the panel without twisting. Repeat for the other end of the same webbing handle at the other mark. Pin securely.
Stitch the handles in place. Sew two lines of stitching within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance (e.g., one at 1/4 inch and one at 3/8 inch from the raw edge). Backstitch multiple times over the handle attachment points for maximum strength, as these areas will bear the weight of your bag. For extra reinforcement, you can also sew a small "X" box at the very top of each handle attachment point on the right side of the fabric.
Repeat this entire process for the second Exterior Fabric body panel and the second webbing handle.
Step 2: Sew the Main Bag Body (Exterior)
Place the two Exterior Fabric body panels right sides together, carefully aligning all raw edges. The attached handles should be sandwiched neatly inside.
Pin securely along both side edges and the entire bottom edge. Leave the top edge (where the handles are) open.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, begin stitching at one top corner, sew down that side, pivot sharply at the bottom corner, stitch straight across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
Press your seams open to reduce bulk and help the bag lay flatter.
Step 3: Box the Corners of the Main Bag
This step creates the flat, structured bottom of your tote bag.
Lay the main bag body flat. The side and bottom seams should be pressed open.
At one of the bottom corners, carefully bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This action will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.
Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 4-inch deep bag, you'll measure 2 inches / 5 cm).
Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point. This is your new stitching line.
Pin firmly along this drawn line.
Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.
Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.
Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of your main bag body. Result: Your main bag now has a defined, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out.
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Step 4: Sew the Lining Bag Body
The lining is constructed almost identically to the main bag, with one crucial difference.
Place the two Lining Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all raw edges.
Pin along both side edges and the entire bottom edge.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side seam.
CRUCIAL STEP: For the bottom seam, you must leave an opening! Stitch approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) from one side, then leave a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) unstitched gap in the middle of the bottom seam. This opening is absolutely essential for turning the entire bag right side out later. After the gap, stitch for another 3 inches (7.5 cm) to reach the other side seam. Backstitch well at the start and end of the stitched sections around your opening.
Stitch up the second side seam.
Press your seams open.
Box the Corners of the Lining Bag: Box the corners of your lining bag using the exact same method you used for the main bag (refer back to Step 3). Result: Your lining bag is now fully constructed, with that important turning opening at the bottom. Keep it wrong side out.
Step 5: Join the Main Bag and the Lining (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)
This clever technique encloses all raw edges at the top of your bag, giving it a super clean and professional finish.
Ensure your main bag body is right side out.
Ensure your lining bag body is wrong side out (and still has that opening in its bottom seam).
Carefully insert the main bag body into the lining bag body.
The right sides of both bags should now be facing each other.
Align the side seams of the main bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
Align the top raw edges of the main fabric and the lining fabric all around the entire opening of the bag.
Pin securely all the way around this top edge, matching up seams precisely.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially when you encounter the bulkier handle attachment points. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
Trim & Clip: To reduce bulk, trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm).
Step 6: Turn Your Bag Right Side Out & Finish
This is the exciting part where your bag takes shape!
Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (main body, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. Take your time, gently push out all the corners of both the main bag and the lining to get a crisp, well-defined shape.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Now, push the lining down into the bag.
Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag. Make sure the lining is fully tucked inside and isn't peeking out over the top of the main fabric.
For a super polished and durable finish, topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the edge. This final topstitching secures the lining in place, helps the bag hold its shape, and adds a professional touch that really elevates a simple design.
V. Simple Touches for Extra Style
Pockets: Before sewing the lining side seams (Step 4), add a simple slip pocket or a zippered pocket to one of your lining panels.
Closure: Add a magnetic snap to the top edge of your lining panels (before joining main and lining in Step 5).
Keychain Clip: Sew a small loop of webbing or ribbon into one of the side seams of your lining (before sewing the lining closed) to create a convenient clip for keys.
Embellishments: Add a decorative tassel, a charm, or even some fabric paint to the finished bag.
You've now created a fantastic, stylish, and functional handbag! What will you fill it with first?
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