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The simplest way to sew a DIY travel quilted bag easily


Creating a DIY quilted travel bag can be a fun and rewarding project, and the "simplest way" usually involves a straightforward, boxy design with minimal fuss. This guide will focus on using pre-quilted fabric to eliminate the most time-consuming step (the actual quilting!), making it much easier for beginners or those short on time.

The Simplest Way to Sew a DIY Travel Quilted Bag Easily

This method prioritizes a simple construction, often resembling a large, structured tote, perfect for weekend trips, carry-on essentials, or even a craft project bag.

I. What Makes This Method "Simple"?

  1. Pre-Quilted Fabric: This is the biggest time-saver. No need to layer batting and fabrics, baste, and then machine quilt. The fabric is already done for you!
  2. Basic Boxy Shape: Uses simple rectangles, making cutting and assembly straightforward.
  3. Minimal Features: We'll skip complex pockets, fancy closures (a simple magnetic snap or zipper if confident, but a toggle/loop is even simpler), or intricate details.
  4. No Binding (Optional): We'll use a lining to enclose raw seams, avoiding the extra step of binding edges.

II. Materials You'll Need:

  1. Pre-Quilted Fabric:
    • Recommendation: 1.5 to 2 yards (1.4 to 1.8 meters) for a medium to large travel bag (approx. 18"W x 14"H x 6"D finished). Choose a durable blend or cotton.
    • Tip: Look for pre-quilted fabrics with interesting patterns or textures.
  2. Lining Fabric (Optional but Recommended):
    • A lightweight cotton or poly-cotton fabric. Same amount as your pre-quilted fabric (1.5 to 2 yards).
    • Why Recommended: It gives the bag a clean finish inside and adds extra durability.
  3. Webbing for Handles:
    • Recommendation: 1.5-inch (3.8 cm) wide cotton or polypropylene webbing. 2 to 2.5 yards (1.8 to 2.3 meters). Choose a color that complements your fabric.
  4. Closure (Choose ONE simple option):
    • Magnetic Snap: 1 set (easy to install).
    • Toggle Button & Loop: 1 large decorative button, and a small strip of fabric or elastic for the loop.
    • Simple Zipper: (If you're comfortable with zippers) One heavy-duty nylon coil zipper, at least 2 inches longer than the top width of your bag.
  5. Thread: All-purpose polyester thread that matches or complements your fabrics and webbing.
  6. Basic Sewing Supplies:
    • Sewing Machine (with a walking foot if you have one – it helps with bulkier fabrics!)
    • Heavy-duty needle (e.g., size 90/14 or 100/16, especially for pre-quilted fabric)
    • Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
    • Quilting Ruler
    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
    • Plenty of Pins or Wonder Clips (clips are great for thick fabrics)
    • Iron and Ironing Board
    • Seam Ripper (just in case!)

III. Deciding on Size & Cutting Your Fabric:

Let's aim for a finished bag size of approximately 18" wide x 14" tall x 6" deep (46 cm x 36 cm x 15 cm). We'll use a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.

Cutting Formulas (with 1/2" SA):

  • Width (W): Finished width + finished depth + 2 * SA = 18" + 6" + 1" = 25"
  • Height (H): Finished height + finished depth + 2 * SA = 14" + 6" + 1" = 21"
  1. Pre-Quilted Fabric (Main Body):
    • Cut 2 rectangles, each 25" wide x 21" high (63.5 cm x 53.3 cm).
  2. Lining Fabric (Lining Body):
    • Cut 2 rectangles, each 25" wide x 21" high (63.5 cm x 53.3 cm).
  3. Webbing for Handles:
    • Cut 2 pieces, each 30 inches (76 cm) long. (Adjust length based on your preferred handle drop).

IV. Sewing Your Simple Quilted Travel Bag:

General Tips for Working with Pre-Quilted Fabric:

  • Use a walking foot if you have one – it helps feed multiple layers evenly.
  • Use a heavy-duty needle to prevent bending or breaking.
  • Increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., 3.0-3.5mm) to avoid skipped stitches and accommodate the bulk.
  • Press seams open whenever possible to reduce bulk.
  • Use Wonder Clips instead of pins, as pins can be hard to push through thick layers and might distort the quilting.

Step 1: Prepare and Attach Handles

  1. Take one of your Pre-Quilted Fabric body panels. Lay it right side up.
  2. Measure in from each side edge along the top by about 4.5 to 5 inches (11.5 to 12.7 cm) and mark these points. This is where your handles will attach.
  3. Take one webbing handle. Align one end of the webbing with your mark on the top edge of the fabric. Ensure the webbing is flat and not twisted. Repeat for the other end of the same webbing handle on the other mark. Pin securely.
  4. Stitch the handles in place with two lines of stitching within the 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance (e.g., 1/4" and 3/8" from the raw edge). Backstitch several times at the beginning and end of each stitch line to reinforce, as these handles will bear weight. You can also sew a small "X" box at the very top of the handle attachment for extra strength.
  5. Repeat for the second Pre-Quilted Fabric body panel and the second webbing handle.

Step 2: Sew Main Bag Body

  1. Place the two Pre-Quilted Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all edges.
  2. Pin along both side edges and the bottom edge. Leave the top edge open.
  3. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch from one top corner down the side, pivot at the bottom corner, stitch across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner. Backstitch well at the beginning and end.
  4. Press your seams open to reduce bulk.

Step 3: Box the Corners of Main Bag Body

  1. Lay the main bag body flat with the side and bottom seams pressed open.
  2. At one of the bottom corners, bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This will create a triangular shape at the corner.
  3. Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 6" depth, measure 3 inches / 7.6 cm).
  4. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measurement point. This line represents where you will sew.
  5. Pin along this drawn line.
  6. Stitch along the drawn line, backstitching securely at the beginning and end.
  7. Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance.
  8. Repeat for the other bottom corner of the main bag body. Result: Your main bag now has a defined, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out.

Step 4: Sew Lining Bag Body

  1. Place the two Lining Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all edges.
  2. Pin along both side edges and the bottom edge.
  3. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side seam.
  4. Crucial: For the bottom seam, leave an opening! Stitch for about 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one side, then leave a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) opening in the middle of the bottom seam. This opening is essential for turning the bag right side out later. Stitch for another 3 inches (7.6 cm) to the other side seam. Backstitch well at the beginning and end of the stitched sections.
  5. Stitch up the second side seam.
  6. Press your seams open.
  7. Box the Corners of Lining Bag: Box the corners of the lining bag in the exact same way you did for the main bag (refer to Step 3). Result: Your lining bag is now constructed, with a turning opening at the bottom. Keep it wrong side out.

Step 5: Install Closure (if using Magnetic Snap)

  • This is the best time to install a magnetic snap if you're using one.
  • On one of your lining panels, measure down from the top edge about 2-3 inches (5-7.6 cm) and find the horizontal center. Mark where the prongs of the snap will go.
  • Cut small slits for the prongs, insert the snap, and use the washer to secure the prongs. Repeat for the other half of the snap on the opposite lining panel.


Step 6: Join Main Bag and Lining (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)

  1. Ensure your main bag body is right side out.
  2. Ensure your lining bag body is wrong side out (with the bottom opening).
  3. Carefully insert the main bag body into the lining bag body.
    • The right sides of both bags should be facing each other.
    • Align the side seams of the main bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
    • Align the top raw edges of the main bag and the lining bag all around the entire opening.
    • Pin securely all around the top edge, matching seams.
  4. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially over the bulky handle attachments. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
  5. Trim & Clip: Trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4" (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk. If you have any slight curves, or just for neatness, clip small notches into the seam allowance.

Step 7: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Finish

  1. Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
  2. Carefully pull the entire bag (main body, lining, handles) through this opening until it is right side out. Take your time pushing out all corners and ensuring everything is aligned.
  3. Close the Lining Opening: Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2" (1.27 cm). Align the pressed edges and pin them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (very close to the folded edge) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a cleaner finish.
  4. Push the lining down into the bag.
  5. Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag, making sure the lining is tucked neatly inside and not showing from the outside.
    • Topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8" (0.3 cm) from the edge. This final topstitching secures the lining in place, gives a professional finish, and helps the bag hold its shape. Use a slightly longer stitch length for topstitching (e.g., 3.0-3.5mm).

V. Optional Simple Enhancements:

  • Simple Slip Pocket: Before assembling the lining (Step 4), create a simple rectangle pocket (e.g., 8"x8"). Hem the top edge, then fold and press under side and bottom edges. Topstitch to one of your lining panels before sewing the lining side seams.
  • Keychain Loop: Before joining main and lining (Step 6), fold a 4" piece of webbing in half to form a loop. Insert it into one of the side seams of the main bag (right side in), ensuring the raw edges are aligned with the bag's raw edge. Stitch it in place within the seam allowance.
  • Simple Toggle Closure: If using a toggle, sew the toggle button onto the outside of the front main panel (before joining main and lining). Create a loop from elastic or a fabric strip. Attach the loop to the inside of the back main panel's top edge (within the seam allowance) before joining main and lining.
  • Basic Zipper Closure (Advanced "Simple"):
    • Cut two additional strips of pre-quilted fabric (e.g., 20" wide x 3" high).
    • Install the zipper between these two strips, similar to how a garment zipper is installed (right sides together, stitch, press, topstitch).
    • Then, instead of sewing the main bag directly to the lining at the top, you'd sew the zipper panel between the main bag and the lining, creating a separate top band with the zipper. This adds complexity but results in a fully closable bag.

You've now created a sturdy and stylish quilted travel bag! Enjoy using it for your next adventure.

Video Tutorial Here



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