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A butterfly sleeve is a beautiful, flowing sleeve that resembles the wings of a butterfly. It typically flares out from the shoulder, creating a soft, elegant drape. A butterfly blouse incorporates these sleeves into its design, often resulting in a relaxed, feminine, and airy garment.
This tutorial will guide you through sewing a simple butterfly blouse. We'll focus on a basic blouse body with easily adaptable butterfly sleeves, suitable for an intermediate sewer or an ambitious beginner.
How to Sew a Butterfly Sleeves, Butterfly Blouse
I. Planning Your Butterfly Blouse
Careful planning ensures your blouse turns out beautifully and fits well.
Fabric Choice:
Lightweight, Flowy Woven Fabrics are best for butterfly sleeves as they enhance the characteristic fluttery drape.
Excellent Choices: Chiffon, georgette, rayon challis, crepe, cotton voile, lightweight linen blends, silk charmeuse.
Avoid: Stiff fabrics (like heavy cotton canvas or denim) or thick knits, as they won't drape well and can make the sleeves bulky.
Yardage: This will depend on your size and chosen pattern. Generally, 1.5 to 2.5 yards (1.4 to 2.3 meters) should be sufficient for most sizes, especially if adapting a simpler top.
Pattern Selection (or Adaptation):
Best Option: Find a commercial sewing pattern for a simple woven top or blouse that has separate sleeve pieces. This makes it easier to modify the sleeves.
Adaptation: You can adapt a basic bodice pattern (either a pullover or a front-opening style). The key modification will be to the sleeve pattern piece. For a "butterfly blouse" where the body is also flowy, consider a pattern that's not too fitted through the bust and waist.
Neckline: Decide on your preferred neckline (e.g., boat neck, scoop neck, V-neck). Facings or bias binding are common ways to finish necklines on woven blouses.
II. Gather Your Materials
Having all your supplies ready before you start sewing makes the process much smoother.
Main Fabric: Enough for your chosen pattern (refer to pattern envelope or estimate 1.5-2.5 yards/1.4-2.3 meters based on your size and desired length).
Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread.
Basic Sewing Tools:
Sewing machine (with a universal needle appropriate for your fabric; consider a finer needle for delicate fabrics like chiffon).
Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat
Measuring Tape or Long Quilting Ruler
Fabric Chalk, Frixion Pen, or Mark-B-Gone Pen
Plenty of Pins (fine, sharp pins are best for delicate fabrics) or Fabric Clips
Iron and Ironing Board (crucial for neat seams!)
Seam Ripper (your essential friend!)
(Optional) Tracing paper for pattern alterations.
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III. Pattern Selection and Modifications
This is where you'll create the signature butterfly sleeve shape.
Using a Commercial Pattern:
Choose a blouse pattern that has a set-in sleeve (a separate sleeve piece that is sewn into the armhole).
Locate the sleeve pattern piece.
Modify for Butterfly Shape:
Length: Decide on the desired length of your butterfly sleeve. They can be short (just past the shoulder), elbow-length, or even longer.
Flare/Width: This is the most important part.
Draw new lines extending outwards from the underarm points of the sleeve pattern piece. The amount you extend will determine how much flutter you get.
A common method is to create a soft curve. Start from the underarm point and curve downwards and outwards, giving the bottom edge of the sleeve a wide, rounded, or gently pointed shape.
The top of the sleeve cap (where it attaches to the armhole) should remain the same as your original pattern, as this ensures it fits your armhole correctly.
Visualizing: Imagine a regular sleeve. For a butterfly sleeve, you're essentially making the bottom of the sleeve very wide and flowing, often extending lower than a traditional sleeve length.
Blouse Body: For a true "butterfly blouse," consider a body pattern that is not overly fitted, allowing for a harmonious flow with the sleeves. A slight A-line or a simple straight cut works well.
Adapting a Basic Bodice (More Advanced - for sleeves):
Start with a basic sleeve pattern.
Measure the desired length for your butterfly sleeve from the shoulder point down.
From the underarm points of your sleeve pattern, draw a wide, curved line outwards and downwards, connecting to the desired sleeve length. The more dramatic the curve and extension, the fuller the flutter.
Ensure the top curve (sleeve cap) remains the same so it fits your bodice armhole.
IV. Cut Your Fabric Pieces
Main Blouse Pieces: Lay your fabric flat, on the fold where indicated, and carefully cut out all your modified pattern pieces. You'll need:
1 Front Bodice piece (often cut on the fold for a pullover, or 2 if it's a front-opening style)
1 Back Bodice piece (usually cut on the fold)
2 Modified Butterfly Sleeve pieces
Neckline Facing/Binding pieces (as per pattern)
V. Let's Start Sewing Your Blouse!
We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Always press your seams after each step for a professional finish.
Step 1: Prepare the Butterfly Sleeves
Take your two Butterfly Sleeve pieces.
Along the entire curved/flared bottom edge of each sleeve, you'll need to finish the raw edge. This is crucial for a beautiful, flowing look. You have a few options:
Narrow Rolled Hem (Recommended for delicate fabrics like chiffon/georgette): This is done by folding the raw edge under by a tiny amount (e.g., 1/8 inch / 0.3 cm), pressing, then folding again by another tiny amount, pressing, and stitching very close to the inner fold. Some machines have a rolled hem foot that makes this easier.
Standard Narrow Hem: Fold the raw edge under by 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) towards the wrong side and press. Fold it under again by another 1/4 inch and press. Stitch this narrow hem in place. This is good for cotton voile or lightweight linen.
Serged Hem: If you have a serger, you can create a narrow, clean finish (like a rolled hem) along the edge.
Repeat for the second butterfly sleeve.
Step 2: Sew Darts (if applicable)
If your bodice pattern has bust darts or waist darts on the front or back pieces, sew these now. Fold the fabric along the center line of the dart, right sides together. Pin along the dart lines.
Stitch from the wide end of the dart to the point, backstitching at the wide end but leaving a few thread tails at the point (do not backstitch at the very tip, as it can create a pucker). Tie these tails in a knot.
Press the darts towards the center front (for vertical darts) or downwards (for horizontal darts).
Step 3: Sew Shoulder Seams
Place the Front Bodice piece(s) right sides together with the Back Bodice piece, aligning the shoulder seams.
Pin along the shoulder seams. Stitch both shoulder seams.
Press the seams open or towards the back.
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Step 4: Attach Butterfly Sleeves to Armholes
For butterfly sleeves, you'll usually set them in flat before sewing the side seams. This is easier than setting them in the round.
Lay your assembled bodice flat, wrong side out.
Take one prepared Butterfly Sleeve. Align the top curve of the sleeve (the sleeve cap) right sides together with the armhole edge of the bodice. Match the center of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam. Match any notches indicated on your pattern.
Pin the entire curved edge of the sleeve to the armhole.
Stitch the sleeve to the armhole.
Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Step 5: Sew Side Seams
With the blouse still inside out, bring the front and back bodice pieces right sides together, aligning the side seams and the underarm seams of the butterfly sleeves (where the sleeve seam meets the side seam).
Pin along the entire length of the side seams and sleeve underseams. Stitch in one continuous line from the sleeve hem to the blouse hem.
Press the seams open or towards the back. If your fabric is delicate, press very gently or use a pressing cloth.
Step 6: Finish the Neckline
Follow your pattern's instructions for finishing the neckline. Common methods include:
Facing (Recommended for structured necklines): Stitch the facing pieces together at the shoulders. Place the facing right sides together with the neckline of the blouse. Stitch. Trim and clip curves. Turn the facing to the inside, press, and topstitch or hand-stitch in place to secure.
Bias Binding (Good for softer necklines): Apply bias binding around the neckline. You can enclose the raw edge completely or use it as a decorative trim.
Step 7: Hem the Blouse Bottom
Finish the raw edge of the blouse bottom hem. This typically involves folding the raw edge under by 1/4 inch (0.6 cm), pressing, then folding again by your desired hem allowance (e.g., 1/2 inch or 1 inch) and stitching. For a more flowy look, a narrow hem is often preferred.
Step 8: Final Press
Give your entire blouse a good press, ensuring all seams lay flat and your butterfly sleeves drape beautifully.
Tips for Success:
Pre-wash your fabric: Always wash and dry your fabric before cutting to prevent shrinkage after you've sewn the blouse.
Test sleeve shape on paper: Before cutting your actual fabric, cut a paper mock-up of your modified butterfly sleeve. Hold it up to your arm to visualize the drape and length.
Staystitching: Necklines and armholes cut on a curve (especially if cut on the bias) can stretch out of shape. Staystitch 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) from the raw edge immediately after cutting to stabilize them.
Seam Finishes: For durable seams that won't fray, finish all raw seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or a serger. For delicate fabrics, French seams can also be a beautiful and strong finish, though they add complexity.
Needle Choice: Use a new, sharp universal needle. For very delicate fabrics like chiffon or silk, a microtex or sharp needle will prevent snags.
You now have a beautiful, custom-made butterfly blouse, perfect for warm weather or adding a touch of elegance to any outfit!
What kind of fabric are you planning to use for your butterfly blouse?
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