You're about to embark on a super creative and eco-friendly project: transforming old jeans into a stylish tote bag adorned with charming denim flowers! This is a fantastic way to upcycle, reduce waste, and create a truly unique accessory. Denim is naturally durable, which is perfect for a tote, and adding denim flowers gives it a lovely, personalized touch.
This detailed guide will walk you through making a lined, structured tote bag with a flat bottom, and then show you how to craft beautiful denim flowers to embellish it.
How to Sew a Tote Bag with Flowers from Old Jeans
I. Planning Your Upcycled Denim Tote Bag
Careful planning is key when working with repurposed materials. It helps you maximize your denim and ensures your project goes smoothly.
Choose Your Jeans Wisely:
Size: A larger pair of adult jeans (men's large or women's larger sizes) will give you more usable fabric, making it easier to cut larger panels without excessive piecing.
Fabric Type: Non-stretch or low-stretch denim is ideal. High-stretch denim can be tricky to sew for structured bags.
Condition: Make sure the jeans are clean, free of major stains (unless you want that distressed look!), and ironed. Fading, rips, or patches can add unique character to your finished tote.
Desired Tote Size: Think about what you'll carry.
A versatile medium-sized tote is often around 14 inches wide x 15 inches tall x 4 inches deep (35.5 cm x 38 cm x 10 cm) when finished. This size is great for daily essentials, books, or light shopping.
Key Denim Features to Reuse (Optional):
Back Pockets: These are perfect for exterior or interior patch pockets on your tote, adding instant utility and that classic jean look.
Waistband/Belt Loops: A piece of the waistband can make a sturdy top hanging loop or a key fob.
Belt loops can be decorative accents. Original Seams: The thick, topstitched seams from the legs can be strategically incorporated into your design for visual interest.
Lining: Highly recommended! A lining hides raw seams, provides extra durability, and gives your tote a professional, clean finish.
You'll likely use new fabric for this. Stabilizer/Interfacing: Essential! This is what gives your tote structure and prevents it from being floppy.
Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing (e.g., Pellon 809 Decor Bond or Pellon 71F Peltex II Ultra Firm): Adds crispness and body.
Fusible Fleece (e.g., Pellon 987F): Adds a softer, padded structure, good for a more relaxed tote.
Closure (Optional):
Magnetic Snap: Simple and secure enough for most needs.
No Closure: A classic open-top tote.
Handles/Straps:
Fabric Straps: Made from coordinating fabric (denim or lining fabric) for a cohesive look.
Webbing: Classic, durable, and easy to attach (1-inch or 1.5-inch wide cotton or poly webbing).
We'll focus on fabric straps made from your denim or a sturdy accent fabric.
Flower Design: What kind of denim flowers do you envision? Simple rolled roses, layered petals, or a mix? We'll cover simple layered flowers and rolled roses.
II. Gather Your Materials
Having everything ready before you start sewing will make the process much smoother and more enjoyable.
Old Jeans: 1-2 pairs of clean, ironed, sturdy denim jeans (depending on bag size and flower quantity).
Lining Fabric: 1 yard (0.9 meters) of medium-weight quilting cotton, broadcloth, or poly-cotton. Choose a fabric that complements your denim.
Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing: 1 yard (0.9 meters) (e.g., Pellon 809 Decor Bond or Pellon 71F Peltex II Ultra Firm).
Optional Magnetic Snap: 1 set, about 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) or 3/4-inch (1.9 cm) diameter.
Matching Thread: Strong, all-purpose polyester thread. For topstitching on denim, use a slightly thicker topstitching thread in a contrasting color (like gold, orange, or beige) for that authentic jean look.
Hot Glue Gun & Glue Sticks: Essential for assembling the denim flowers and attaching them to the bag.
Optional Embellishments for Flowers: Buttons, beads, small felt circles, contrasting fabric scraps for flower centers or leaves.
Basic Sewing Supplies:
Sewing Machine: Must handle thick layers. A walking foot is highly recommended.
Heavy-Duty Needles: Denim needles (size 90/14 or 100/16) are essential for piercing thick denim. Keep spares on hand.
Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.
Long Quilting Ruler or Measuring Tape.
Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen.
Plenty of Wonder Clips (superior to pins for holding thick denim layers).
Iron and Ironing Board (crucial for pressing seams flat and fusing interfacing).
Seam Ripper (your best friend for deconstructing jeans and correcting mistakes!).
III. Prepare Your Jeans & Cut Fabric Pieces
This stage is often the most time-consuming, but precision here pays off with a well-fitting, stylish tote.
A. Deconstruct Your Jeans:
Cut Off Legs: Lay the jeans flat and smooth. Using your sharp fabric scissors, cut straight across both pant legs, just below the crotch seam.
Open Leg Seams: Use your seam ripper to carefully open up both the inseam (inner leg seam) and the outseam (outer leg seam) of each cut-off leg. This gives you two large, flat panels of denim fabric. Iron these pieces flat.
Harvest Back Pockets (Optional): Carefully seam rip the back pockets off the jeans if you plan to reuse them.
Save Waistband (Optional): Cut a section of the waistband if you want to use it for a top loop or decorative element.
B. Determine Your Panel Sizes (Example: 14" W x 15" H x 4" D Tote):
We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.
Main Body Panel Width: Finished Width + Finished Depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 14" + 4" + 1" = 19 inches (48.3 cm)
Main Body Panel Height: Finished Height + Finished Depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 15" + 4" + 1" = 20 inches (51 cm)
C. Cut Your Fabric Pieces:
Exterior Denim Pieces (from your jeans):
Main Body (Front & Back): Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 20 inches high.
Important on Piecing: You'll likely need to piece together sections of your opened-up jean legs to get these large panels.
How to Piece Denim: Lay out your opened jean pieces. Arrange them to maximize your cuts. Place two denim pieces right sides together, aligning a long raw edge. Stitch them together using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Press the seam open thoroughly to reduce bulk. Topstitch (Highly Recommended!): On the right side of the fabric, sew two parallel lines of stitching, one on each side of the seam line, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) away. Use your topstitching thread for this. This mimics authentic jean seams and adds immense strength. Continue piecing until you have two panels large enough.
Strap Pieces: Cut 2 rectangles, each 4 inches wide x 25 inches long. (You can make these longer/shorter depending on your preference for shoulder vs. hand carry).
Lining Fabric Pieces:
Main Body (Front & Back): Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 20 inches high.
Interior Slip Pocket (Optional): Cut 1 rectangle, 8 inches wide x 10 inches high.
Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing:
Main Body Panels: Cut 2 rectangles, each 18 inches wide x 19 inches high (1 inch smaller on all sides than your main fabric panels to keep bulk out of the seam allowances).
Denim Scraps for Flowers: Collect various small to medium-sized scraps from different jean washes (if available) for your flowers.
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IV. Let's Start Sewing Your Denim Tote Bag!
General Sewing Tips for Denim:
Always use a fresh, sharp denim needle. Essential for preventing skipped stitches and broken needles.
Use your walking foot. It's a game-changer for feeding thick fabric layers evenly.
Go Slow! Stitch slowly, especially over existing jean seams or pieced areas. Gently hand-crank your machine over very thick spots.
Wonder Clips are superior to pins for thick denim.
Press, Press, Press. Pressing seams open after each step reduces bulk and creates crisp results. Use a good, hot iron.
Topstitching: Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0-3.5mm) for all topstitching to get that authentic denim look.
Step 1: Fuse Interfacing to Exterior Panels
Take your two Exterior Denim Main Body Panels. Lay each one wrong side up on your ironing board.
Center one Interfacing piece on each fabric panel (it should be 1 inch smaller on all sides).
Following the manufacturer's instructions for your specific interfacing, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press firmly and allow to cool completely. This gives your tote structure and body.
Step 2: Construct the Exterior Bag Body
Use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance.
Place the two Exterior Main Body Panels right sides together, carefully aligning all raw edges.
Clip securely along both side edges and the entire bottom edge. The top edge remains open.
Stitch from one top corner down that side, pivot sharply at the bottom corner, stitch straight across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
Press your seams open thoroughly to reduce bulk.
Step 3: Box the Corners of the Exterior Bag
This step creates the flat, defined bottom of your tote bag, giving it more structure and capacity.
Lay the exterior bag body flat. The side and bottom seams should be pressed open.
At one of the bottom corners, carefully bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This action will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.
Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 4-inch deep bag, you'll measure 2 inches / 5 cm).
Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point (this line should be 4 inches long if your desired depth is 4 inches).
Clip firmly along this drawn line.
Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.
Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.
Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of your exterior bag body.
Result: Your exterior bag now has a structured, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out.
Step 4: Prepare and Attach Fabric Handles
Take one Strap Piece (4" x 25"). Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press firmly. Open it up.
Fold each long raw edge in towards the center crease you just made, and press again.
Fold the entire strip in half again along the original center crease. You should now have a long, flat handle that is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide with no raw edges visible. Press firmly along the entire length.
Topstitch down both long sides of the prepared handle, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the edge. This secures all the folds and makes a neat, strong handle.
Repeat this process for the second strap piece.
Attach to Exterior Bag: Turn your exterior bag right side out. Lay it flat, smoothing it out.
Measure in from each side seam along the top raw edge by about 4-5 inches (10-12.7 cm). Mark these points with chalk.
Position the raw ends of one prepared handle on the top raw edge of the bag at your marks. Make sure the handle itself is flat and not twisted. Pin or clip securely.
Stitch the handle ends in place. For a strong hold, sew a small square (about 1x1 inch) with an "X" inside it (an X-box stitch) for maximum reinforcement. Stitch within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, close to the raw edge.
Repeat for the other side of the bag with the second handle.
Result: Your exterior bag has handles securely attached and pointing down into the bag.
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Step 5: Sew the Lining Bag Body (with Optional Pocket)
The lining is constructed almost identically to the main bag, with one crucial difference for turning the bag right side out later.
Prepare Interior Slip Pocket (Optional):
Take your 8" x 10" pocket piece (lining fabric). Fold it in half, right sides together, so it's 8" x 5". Stitch around three sides (the two long sides and one short side), leaving a 3-4 inch (7.6-10.2 cm) opening on the remaining short side (this will be the bottom of the pocket). Trim corners.
Turn the pocket right side out through the opening. Push out corners neatly and press flat. Stitch the opening closed by machine (very close to the edge) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch.
Position and Attach Pocket: Take one of your Lining Fabric Main Body Panels. Position the pocket about 4-5 inches (10-12.7 cm) down from the top raw edge, and centered horizontally.
Topstitch the pocket to the lining panel along its two sides and bottom edge. Stitch close to the edge. Reinforce the top corners of the pocket with a small triangle stitch or a few back-and-forth stitches, as these are high-stress points.
Sew Lining Body:
Place the two Lining Fabric Main Body Panels right sides together, aligning all raw edges.
Clip or pin along both side edges.
CRUCIAL STEP: For the bottom seam, you must leave an opening! Stitch down one side seam. Then, for the bottom seam, stitch approximately 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one side, then leave a 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) unstitched gap in the middle of the bottom seam. This opening is absolutely essential for turning the entire bag right side out later. After the gap, stitch for another 3 inches (7.6 cm) to reach the other side seam. Backstitch well at the start and end of your stitching around the gap.
Stitch up the second side seam.
Press your seams open.
Box the Corners of the Lining Bag: Box the corners of your lining bag using the exact same method you used for the exterior bag (refer back to Step 3).
Result: Your lining bag is now fully constructed, with that important turning opening. Keep it wrong side out.
Step 6: Install Magnetic Snap (Optional, if using)
If you're adding a magnetic snap closure:
Take one of your Lining Main Body Panels (before it's sewn into a bag if you want to apply interfacing behind it for extra strength, which is recommended). Mark the center of the top edge. Measure down about 1.5 to 2 inches (3.8 to 5 cm) from the top raw edge. This is where the first half of your snap will go.
Follow the magnetic snap manufacturer's instructions to install one half of the snap onto this lining piece. Apply a small piece of fusible interfacing to the back of the fabric first for reinforcement if your snap didn't come with a metal washer with prongs.
Repeat for the other half of the snap on the other Lining Main Body Panel. Ensure they will align perfectly when the bag is assembled.
Step 7: Join the Exterior Bag and the Lining Bag (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)
This clever technique encloses all raw edges at the top for a super clean and professional finish.
Ensure your exterior bag is right side out, with handles attached and pointing down into the bag.
Ensure your lining bag is wrong side out (and still has that turning opening at the bottom).
Carefully insert the exterior bag into the lining bag.
The right sides of both bags should now be facing each other.
Align the side seams of the exterior bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
Align the top raw edges of the exterior fabric and the lining fabric all around the entire opening of the bag. The handles should be sandwiched between the layers, pointing down.
Clip very securely all the way around this top edge, matching up seams precisely.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially when you go over the handle attachment points (which will be thick!). Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
Trim Bulk: Carefully trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk inside the top edge.
Step 8: Turn Your Bag Right Side Out & Finish
This is the incredibly satisfying moment your upcycled denim tote bag takes its final, beautiful shape!
Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. Take your time, gently pushing out all the corners for a crisp, well-defined shape.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Now, push the lining down into the exterior denim bag.
Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag. Make sure the lining is fully tucked inside and isn't peeking out over the top edge of the exterior fabric.
For a super polished and durable finish, topstitch all around the entire top opening of the bag, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the edge. This final topstitching marries the lining to the exterior, helps the bag hold its shape, and creates a crisp, professional look. You can also sew a second row of topstitching about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) from the top edge for added detail and stability.
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V. How to Make Denim Flowers
Now for the fun, decorative part! Denim flowers add so much charm and a personalized touch. You can make several and arrange them on your tote.
Method 1: Simple Layered Denim Flowers
Cut Petal Shapes: From your denim scraps, cut various sizes of simple petal shapes. Think teardrops, ovals, or even just rounded rectangles. Cut at least 5-7 petals per flower, varying in size (e.g., 2 large, 3 medium, 2 small). Don't worry about perfection; natural variations look great.
Rough Edges (Optional): For a distressed look, gently fray the edges of each petal by pulling a few threads from the raw edges.
Assemble:
Lay the largest petals in a circle, slightly overlapping, to form the base of your flower. Use a tiny dot of hot glue in the center to secure them together.
Layer the next size of petals on top, staggering them, and glue in place.
Continue layering until you reach the smallest petals in the center.
Center Embellishment: Hot glue a button, a few beads, or a small circle of felt or contrasting denim to the very center of the flower to cover any raw ends.
Leaves (Optional): Cut a couple of leaf shapes from green fabric (felt works well) or even a darker denim. Hot glue them to the back of the finished flower.
Method 2: Rolled Denim Roses
Cut a Strip: Cut a long strip of denim from your scraps. The width will determine the height of your rose, and the length will determine its fullness. A good starting point is 1.5-2 inches (3.8-5 cm) wide by 15-20 inches (38-51 cm) long.
Prepare Edge (Optional): For a cleaner edge, fold one long edge of the strip down by 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) and stitch it down. For a rustic look, you can leave it raw or lightly fray it.
Start Rolling:
Place a small dot of hot glue at one end of the strip. Fold a small corner over to create a starting point, and begin tightly rolling the denim strip. This will be the center of your rose.
As you continue to roll, occasionally twist the strip a bit before rolling it further, and apply small dots of hot glue to the bottom edge of the strip to secure each roll. This twisting and gluing creates the layered petal effect.
Continue rolling and gluing until your rose reaches your desired size.
Finish: When you reach the end of the strip, fold the raw end under and hot glue it securely to the base of the rose.
Leaves (Optional): Cut a couple of leaf shapes and hot glue them to the back.
VI. Decorate Your Tote Bag!
Once your denim tote bag is complete and your flowers are made, it's time for the final styling!
Arrange: Lay out your denim flowers on the exterior of your tote bag to decide on your desired arrangement. You can cluster them in a corner, create a scattered pattern, or make a bold focal point.
Attach: Use your hot glue gun to securely attach the finished denim flowers to the exterior of your tote bag. Press firmly until the glue sets.
Add Other Details (Optional):
Stitch on additional denim patches (maybe some salvaged from the jeans!).
Add some decorative topstitching around the rim or side seams.
Embroider some details around the flowers.
Your unique, upcycled Denim Tote Bag with Flowers is now complete! You've transformed old jeans into a functional, durable, and truly stylish accessory that's one-of-a-kind. Enjoy carrying your sustainable creation with pride!
What kind of denim flowers did you decide to make for your tote?
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