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Creating your own stylish zippered tote bag is a fantastic project that combines practicality with personal flair! A zippered tote is secure, versatile, and allows you to carry your essentials with peace of mind. This detailed guide will walk you through making a well-structured tote with a flat bottom, a secure top zipper, and comfortable handles.
How to Sew a Stylish Tote Bag with a Zipper
This tutorial uses a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.
I. Planning Your Zippered Tote Bag
Before you begin, a little planning goes a long way to ensure your tote meets your needs and looks great.
Size: A good versatile size is about 14 inches wide x 15 inches tall x 4 inches deep (approximately 35.5 cm W x 38 cm H x 10 cm D). This is great for daily essentials, books, or light shopping. Feel free to adjust these dimensions!
Fabric Choices:
Exterior Fabric: Choose a medium to heavy-weight fabric that will hold its shape well. Good options include canvas, duck cloth, denim, home décor fabric, twill, or even a sturdy faux leather. Pick a color or print that suits your style.
Lining Fabric: A lighter to medium-weight cotton fabric like quilting cotton, broadcloth, or poly-cotton is perfect for the interior. This is a great place to add a fun contrasting print or a pop of color!
Handles/Straps:
Fabric Straps: We'll make these from your exterior or a coordinating fabric for a cohesive look.
Webbing: An alternative option if you prefer pre-made straps (usually 1-inch or 1.5-inch wide cotton or poly webbing).
Structure:
Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing: This is essential to give your tote body and prevent it from being floppy. Options include Pellon 809 Decor Bond or Pellon 71F Peltex II Ultra Firm.
Closure: A zipper provides excellent security for your belongings.
II. Gather Your Materials
Having all your supplies ready before you start sewing will make your project run smoothly.
Exterior Fabric: 1 yard (0.9 meters)
Lining Fabric: 1 yard (0.9 meters)
Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing: 1 yard (0.9 meters)
Zipper: One 16-inch (40.6 cm) handbag zipper (a standard nylon coil zipper is easiest to work with). Choose a color that complements your fabrics.
Matching Thread: Strong, all-purpose polyester thread. If your exterior fabric is denim, consider topstitching thread in a contrasting color for a professional finish.
Basic Sewing Supplies:
Sewing Machine: Your machine should be capable of sewing through multiple layers of fabric. A zipper foot is essential, and a walking foot is highly recommended for feeding thicker fabrics evenly.
Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.
Long Quilting Ruler or Measuring Tape.
Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen.
Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are great for thick layers and zippers!).
Iron and Ironing Board (crucial for pressing seams flat and fusing interfacing).
Seam Ripper (every sewist's best friend!).
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III. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces
Accuracy in cutting leads to a well-fitting, professional-looking bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.
Desired Finished Tote Size: 14" W x 15" H x 4" D (35.5 cm W x 38 cm H x 10 cm D).
A. Calculate Your Panel Sizes:
Main Body Panel Width: Finished Width + Finished Depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 14" + 4" + 1" = 19 inches (48.3 cm)
Main Body Panel Height: Finished Height + Finished Depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 15" + 4" + 1" = 20 inches (51 cm)
B. Cut Your Fabric Pieces:
Exterior Fabric Pieces:
Main Body (Front & Back): Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 20 inches high.
Strap Pieces: Cut 2 rectangles, each 4 inches wide x 25 inches long. (Adjust length for your preferred handle drop).
Lining Fabric Pieces:
Main Body (Front & Back): Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 20 inches high.
Interior Slip Pocket (Optional): Cut 1 rectangle, 8 inches wide x 10 inches high.
Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing:
Main Body Panels: Cut 2 rectangles, each 18 inches wide x 19 inches high (1 inch smaller on all sides than your main fabric panels to keep bulk out of the seam allowances).
IV. Let's Start Sewing Your Zippered Tote Bag!
General Sewing Tips:
Press, Press, Press: This is the most crucial step for a crisp, professional-looking bag. Press seams open after each stitching step.
Backstitch: Always backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to secure your stitches.
Walking Foot: Use it! It makes a huge difference when sewing multiple layers or thicker fabrics.
Clips: They're excellent for holding thick layers and zippers in place, much better than pins.
Go Slow: Take your time, especially when sewing around corners or through thick areas. Precision over speed!
Topstitching: Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0-3.5mm) for topstitching for a more professional, intentional look.
Step 1: Fuse Interfacing to Exterior Panels
Take your two Exterior Fabric Main Body Panels. Lay each one wrong side up on your ironing board.
Center one Interfacing piece on each fabric panel (it should be 1 inch smaller on all sides).
Following the manufacturer's instructions for your specific interfacing, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press firmly and allow to cool completely. This gives your tote structure and body.
Step 2: Prepare Interior Slip Pocket (Optional)
Take your 8" x 10" pocket piece (lining fabric).
Fold one long 8-inch edge down by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) towards the wrong side and press. Fold it down again by another 1/2 inch and press. Stitch this hem in place, close to the folded edge. This is the top edge of your pocket.
Fold the other three raw edges (the two short 10-inch sides and the bottom 8-inch side) in by 1/2 inch and press.
Position this prepared pocket onto the right side of one of your Lining Fabric Main Body Panels. Center it horizontally, about 4-5 inches (10-12.7 cm) down from the top raw edge.
Topstitch the pocket in place along its two sides and bottom edge, close to the folded edges. Backstitch at the beginning and end, and reinforce the top corners with a small triangle stitch or extra back-and-forth stitches for durability.
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Step 3: Attach the Zipper
This is often the trickiest part for beginners, but take it slow for a clean result!
Lay one Exterior Fabric Main Body Panel right side up.
Place your zipper on top of the exterior panel, right side down, aligning the top edge of the zipper tape with the top raw edge of the exterior panel. The zipper teeth should be facing down.
Place one Lining Fabric Main Body Panel on top of the zipper, right side down, aligning its top raw edge with the zipper tape and the exterior panel.
You now have a "sandwich": Exterior Fabric (right side up) - Zipper (right side down) - Lining Fabric (right side down).
Clip all three layers together along the top edge.
Using your zipper foot, stitch through all three layers, sewing as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Stitch from one end of the zipper to the other.
Press: Open up the fabric pieces so the exterior and lining are pulled away from the zipper, and the zipper teeth are exposed. Press the fabric well away from the zipper.
Topstitch: On the right side of the exterior fabric, sew a line of topstitching very close to the seam you just made (about 1/8 inch / 0.3 cm from the zipper teeth). This helps the fabric lay flat and gives a polished look.
Now, you'll attach the other side of the zipper.
Take your remaining Exterior Fabric Main Body Panel. Lay it right side up.
Take the already-attached zipper/exterior/lining unit. Place it on top of the new exterior panel, aligning the unstitched side of the zipper tape with the top raw edge of this new exterior panel. The first exterior piece and lining should be flipped out of the way.
Place the remaining Lining Fabric Main Body Panel on top of the zipper tape, right side down, aligning its top raw edge with the zipper tape and the exterior panel.
You now have a second "sandwich": New Exterior Fabric (right side up) - Zipper (unstitched side down) - New Lining Fabric (right side down).
Clip all three layers together.
Using your zipper foot, stitch through all three layers, as close to the zipper teeth as possible.
Press & Topstitch: Open up the fabric pieces and press well away from the zipper. Then, topstitch on the right side of the exterior fabric, close to the zipper teeth.
Result: You now have a flat piece of fabric with the zipper running across the middle, and the exterior fabric pieces on one side, lining pieces on the other. IMPORTANT: Unzip the zipper about halfway or more before proceeding! If you don't, you won't be able to turn the bag right side out.
Step 4: Prepare and Attach Fabric Handles
Take one Strap Piece (4" x 25"). Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press firmly. Open it up.
Fold each long raw edge in towards the center crease you just made, and press again.
Fold the entire strip in half again along the original center crease. You should now have a long, flat handle that is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide with no raw edges visible. Press firmly along the entire length.
Topstitch down both long sides of the prepared handle, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the edge. This secures all the folds and makes a neat, strong handle.
Repeat this process for the second strap piece.
Attach to Exterior Bag (Zipper Unit): Lay your zipper unit flat with the exterior fabric sides facing up.
Measure in from each side edge along the top raw edge (the edge that runs perpendicular to the zipper) by about 4-5 inches (10-12.7 cm). Mark these points with chalk.
Position the raw ends of one prepared handle on the top raw edge of the bag at your marks. Make sure the handle itself is flat and not twisted. Pin or clip securely. The handle should be pointing down into the bag.
Stitch the handle ends in place. For a strong hold, sew a small square (about 1x1 inch) with an "X" inside it (an X-box stitch) for maximum reinforcement. Stitch within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, close to the raw edge.
Repeat for the other side of the bag with the second handle.
Step 5: Sew the Bag Body (Exterior and Lining)
Pull the exterior fabric pieces together so they are right sides together. Align the unstitched raw edges, forming a "tube." Clip or pin along the bottom and side seams. Make sure the handles are tucked inside and won't get caught in the seam.
Pull the lining fabric pieces together so they are also right sides together. Align the unstitched raw edges, forming a "tube." Clip or pin along the bottom and side seams.
For the Lining: Along the bottom seam of the lining, leave a 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) unstitched gap in the middle. This opening is absolutely essential for turning the entire bag right side out later. Backstitch well at the start and end of your stitching around the gap.
Stitch all the way around the exterior "tube" (bottom and two sides) using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
Stitch all the way around the lining "tube" (bottom - remembering the opening! - and two sides) using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
Press all seams open. This reduces bulk and gives a cleaner finish.
Step 6: Box the Corners (Exterior and Lining)
This step creates the flat, defined bottom of your tote bag.
At one of the bottom corners of the exterior fabric bag, carefully bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.
Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 4-inch deep bag, you'll measure 2 inches / 5 cm).
Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point. (This line will be 4 inches long if your desired depth is 4 inches).
Clip firmly along this drawn line.
Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.
Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.
Repeat this exact process for all three remaining corners (the other exterior corner and both lining corners).
Result: Both your exterior fabric bag and your lining bag now have structured, flat bottoms.
Step 7: Join the Exterior Bag and the Lining Bag (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)
This clever technique encloses all raw edges at the top for a super clean and professional finish.
Ensure your exterior bag is right side out, with the zipper halfway unzipped and handles attached and pointing down into the bag.
Ensure your lining bag is wrong side out (and still has that turning opening at the bottom).
Carefully insert the exterior bag into the lining bag.
The right sides of both bags should now be facing each other.
Align the side seams of the exterior bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
Align the top edges (where the zipper is) of the exterior fabric and the lining fabric all around the entire opening of the bag. The zipper tape will be sandwiched between the two.
Clip very securely all the way around this entire opening. Make sure the handles are tucked well inside and won't get caught in the seam.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially over the zipper ends and where the handles are attached (these will be thick!). Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Trim Bulk: Carefully trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk inside the top edge.
Step 8: Turn Your Bag Right Side Out & Finish
This is the incredibly satisfying moment your stylish tote bag takes its final, beautiful shape!
Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, zipper, lining – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. Take your time, gently pushing out all the corners and seams for a crisp, well-defined shape.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Now, push the lining down into the exterior bag.
Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag, especially around the zipper, to ensure the fabric lays flat and the shape is crisp.
For a super polished and durable finish, topstitch all around the entire zipper opening, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the zipper teeth. This secures the lining to the exterior, helps the zipper lay flat, and gives a professional look.
Your unique, handmade Stylish Zippered Tote Bag is now complete! You've created a functional, durable, and truly personalized accessory. Enjoy carrying your beautiful creation with pride!
What color or pattern did you choose for your tote's exterior fabric?
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