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How to Sew a DIY Simple No-Zipper Denim Crossbody Bag from Old Jeans👜👜


 Making a no-zipper denim crossbody bag from old jeans is a fantastic upcycling project! It's an excellent way to create a stylish, durable, and practical bag without the challenge of zipper installation, making it more beginner-friendly. We'll focus on a simple design with a flap closure for security.

This detailed tutorial will guide you through creating a simple, flap-over crossbody bag with an adjustable strap, perfect for carrying essentials. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 9 inches (23 cm) wide, 7 inches (18 cm) tall, and 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) deep.

How to Sew a DIY Simple No-Zipper Denim Crossbody Bag from Old Jeans

This project is great for beginners looking to work with denim and create a functional accessory. The key elements are straightforward construction and a simple flap closure.

I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials

Careful preparation is crucial for a smooth sewing process and a durable, well-finished bag.

  • Old Jeans:

    • Quantity: 1 pair of adult-sized jeans. Look for sturdy, non-stretch or low-stretch denim. Straight-leg or bootcut jeans offer more continuous fabric.

    • Preparation: Wash and thoroughly dry your jeans before cutting. This prevents shrinkage later and makes them easier to work with.

  • Lining Fabric:

    • Type: A durable woven cotton, like quilting cotton, broadcloth, or an old cotton sheet. A contrasting color or fun print can add a nice touch.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).

    • Preparation: Wash and iron.

  • Interfacing (Highly Recommended for Structure):

    • Type: Medium-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex). This will give your denim and lining more stability and help the bag hold its shape.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).

  • Webbing for Adjustable Strap:

    • Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1.5 yards (1.4 meters).

  • Hardware for Adjustable Strap:

    • 2 D-rings: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).

    • 1 Slider/Adjuster Buckle: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).

  • Closure:

    • Magnetic Snap: (Recommended for ease of use) 1 set.

    • Velcro: A 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) strip.

    • Button and Buttonhole: If you're comfortable with buttonholes.

  • Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A stronger, heavy-duty thread (like topstitching thread) is highly recommended for sewing through multiple layers of denim and for topstitching.

  • Basic Sewing Tools:

    • Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 14 or 16, is essential for sewing through thick denim).

    • Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine.

    • Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.

    • Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.

    • Fabric Chalk, Frixion Pen, or Mark-B-Gone Pen.

    • Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are invaluable for holding thick denim!).

    • Iron and Ironing Board.

    • Seam Ripper (your best friend!).

    • Awl or small sharp scissors: For installing magnetic snaps.

II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces

Accuracy in cutting is crucial for a well-shaped bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.

1. Deconstruct Your Jeans

  • Lay your washed and ironed jeans flat.

  • Cut off the legs just below the crotch seam.

  • Carefully unpick (seam rip) the inseam (the inner leg seam) and the outer leg seam of both legs. This will give you large, flat pieces of denim. Press them flat.

  • Harvest a Back Pocket (Optional): Carefully cut off one back pocket, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance around its stitched edges. This can be your exterior slip pocket.

2. Cut Main Bag Panels (Denim & Lining)

  • From your Denim (Exterior Fabric):

    • Main Body Panel: 1 piece, 10 inches wide x 19 inches tall (25 cm W x 48 cm H). This piece will form the front, back, and flap of your bag.

    • Side/Bottom Band: 1 piece, 22 inches long x 2.5 inches tall (56 cm L x 6.4 cm H). This will form the continuous side and bottom of your bag.

    • Strap Connectors: 2 pieces, 3 inches long x 2 inches wide (7.6 cm L x 5 cm W).

  • From your Lining Fabric:

    • Main Lining Panel: 1 piece, 10 inches wide x 15 inches tall (25 cm W x 38 cm H). (Note: The lining is shorter as it doesn't include the flap).

    • Side/Bottom Lining Band: 1 piece, 22 inches long x 2.5 inches tall (56 cm L x 6.4 cm H).

    • Interior Pocket Panel (Optional): 1 piece, 8 inches tall x 10 inches wide (20 cm T x 25 cm W).

  • From your Interfacing:

    • Cut pieces slightly smaller (e.g., 1/2 inch smaller on each side) than all corresponding denim exterior panels (Main Body Panel, Side/Bottom Band, and Strap Connectors). Also cut for the Main Lining Panel and Interior Pocket.

    • Fuse Interfacing: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of all the corresponding denim and lining pieces. Center the interfacing so there's a 1/2-inch border of fabric exposed on all sides for the seam allowance.

3. Prepare Webbing for Strap

  • Cut the webbing into one 50-inch (127 cm) piece. (This length allows for adjustability; you can trim if desired).


III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Use your denim needle and heavy-duty thread for all denim sections. A walking foot is highly recommended. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement.

Step 1: Attach Exterior Pocket (Optional)

  1. Take your Main Body Panel (10" x 19"). Lay it right side up.

  2. Measure 7 inches (18 cm) up from one of the 10-inch bottom edges. This marks the top of what will be the front of your bag.

  3. Position the jean back pocket where you'd like it on the "front" section (below the 7-inch mark). Pin securely.

  4. Stitch the pocket onto the denim panel, very close to the existing stitched edges of the pocket. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack stitch for extra durability.

Step 2: Prepare Strap Connectors

  1. Take one Denim Strap Connector (3" x 2"). Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so it measures 1.5" x 2". Press.

  2. Open it up. Fold each long raw edge into the center crease you just made. Press again.

  3. Fold the entire strip in half lengthwise once more, enclosing all raw edges. Press firmly. You should now have a strip that is about 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) wide.

  4. Stitch along both long edges of this strip, close to the folded edges, to secure them.

  5. Thread one end of a D-ring onto this strip. Fold the strip in half around the D-ring, aligning the raw ends. Stitch the raw ends together securely, about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) from the D-ring. This creates a small D-ring tab.

  6. Repeat for the second Denim Strap Connector and D-ring.

Step 3: Attach Strap Connectors to Main Body Panel

  1. On your Main Body Panel (10" x 19"), identify the "back" section (the 7-inch section above the exterior pocket, or if no pocket, one of the ends of the 19-inch panel).

  2. Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) down from the top raw corners of this "back" section (along the 10-inch top edge).

  3. Place one of the prepared D-ring tabs onto one of these marks, aligning the raw end of the tab with the raw side edge of the main panel. The D-ring should point inwards, towards the center of the panel. Pin securely.

  4. Stitch the tab in place within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, using a small square or bar tack stitch for reinforcement.

  5. Repeat for the second D-ring tab on the other side of the "back" section.

Step 4: Install Magnetic Snap/Closure on Flap & Bag Front

  1. On the Flap (Denim): Identify the "flap" section of your Main Body Panel (the remaining 5-inch section at the top, above the D-rings, when the bag is folded). Measure 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) up from the raw edge of this 5-inch section, centered. Mark this spot for one half of your magnetic snap (usually the male part). Follow the magnetic snap instructions to install it.

  2. On the Bag Front (Denim): Identify the "front" section of your Main Body Panel (where the exterior pocket is, or the opposite end from the flap). Measure 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) down from the raw edge of this 7-inch section, centered. Mark this spot for the other half of your magnetic snap. Install it.

    • If using Velcro: Stitch one side of the Velcro strip to the flap (on the wrong side), and the other side to the bag front (on the right side).

    • If using a button: Stitch the button to the bag front. You'll create a buttonhole on the flap later.

Step 5: Assemble the Exterior Bag Body

  1. Fold the Main Body Panel in half right sides together, so the "front" section aligns with the "back" section, and the flap extends beyond. The fold is where the bottom of your bag will be.

  2. Align the 19-inch raw side edges. Stitch these two side seams, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Press seams open.

  3. Take your Side/Bottom Band (22" x 2.5").

  4. Stitch the short ends of the Side/Bottom Band together (right sides facing) to form a loop. Press seam open.

  5. Align the Side/Bottom Band (right sides together) with the bottom edge of the Main Body Panel loop you just created. Pin carefully around the entire perimeter. You'll need to clip into the seam allowance of the band at the corners to help it curve smoothly around the bag's body.

  6. Stitch all the way around this connection, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Go slowly around the corners. This forms the complete exterior shell of your bag, with the flap still extending.

  7. Finish Raw Edges (Recommended): Use a zigzag stitch or serger along all raw seam allowances to prevent fraying and add durability.

Step 6: Prepare the Interior Pocket (Optional)

  1. Take your Interior Pocket Panel (8" x 10"). Fold it in half (wrong sides together) to measure 4" x 10". Press.

  2. Hem the top raw edge (what will be the top of the pocket) by folding 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) down towards the wrong side, pressing, then folding another 1/2 inch and pressing. Stitch this hem in place, close to the inner fold.

  3. Place this pocket onto one of your Main Lining Panels, centering it horizontally about 2 inches (5 cm) down from what will be the top edge of the lining. Pin in place.

  4. Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, very close to the edge. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack for durability. You can add vertical stitching to create compartments if desired.

Step 7: Assemble the Lining Bag

  1. Fold the Main Lining Panel (10" x 15") in half right sides together so it measures 10 inches wide x 7.5 inches tall. Stitch the two 7.5-inch side seams, leaving a 4-5 inch (10-12.7 cm) opening along the center of one of these side seams. This opening is crucial for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of this gap.

  2. Take your Lining Side/Bottom Band (22" x 2.5"). Stitch its short ends together (right sides facing) to form a loop. Press seam open.

  3. Attach the Main Lining Panel to the Lining Side/Bottom Band using the same method as in Step 5 for the exterior bag. Be sure the opening you left in the side seam of the lining body is accessible.

  4. Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.

Step 8: Combine Exterior and Lining

  1. Keep the exterior denim bag turned right side out.

  2. Keep the lining bag turned inside out.

  3. Carefully insert the exterior denim bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.

  4. Align the top raw edges of the denim bag's main opening (not the flap) with the top raw edges of the lining bag. Make sure all seams match up (side seams of exterior to side seams of lining). All D-ring tabs should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers. The flap of the denim bag will extend outwards, not tucked in.

  5. Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the bag.


Step 9: Sew Top Edge and Finish

  1. Stitch all the way around the top opening of the bag, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

  2. Clip curves/trim bulk: Clip into the seam allowance around any curves (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially near the D-ring tabs.

Step 10: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Close Opening

  1. Reach into the opening you left in the side seam of the lining (from Step 7).

  2. Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, strap tabs – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze due to the denim and interfacing, so be patient and gentle.

  3. Gently push out all the corners and seams with a point turner or a blunt object (like a chopstick) to make them crisp and well-defined.

  4. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the side seam of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.

  5. Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside.

  6. Give your finished bag a good final press, paying special attention to the flap and top edge.

Step 11: Assemble the Adjustable Shoulder Strap

  1. Take your 50-inch webbing piece.

  2. Thread one end of the webbing through the center bar of your slider/adjuster buckle, going over the top and then under. Pull about 2 inches (5 cm) through.

  3. Fold this end back on itself by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the first end to the adjuster.

  4. Take the other end of the webbing. Thread it through one of the D-rings on your bag.

  5. Now, thread this same end of the webbing through the slider/adjuster buckle, going under the top bar and over the bottom bar (the one you just secured). This creates the adjustable loop.

  6. Finally, thread the webbing through the second D-ring on your bag.

  7. Fold the end of the webbing back by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the second end of the strap to the other D-ring.

Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a durable and unique DIY Simple No-Zipper Denim Crossbody Bag from Old Jeans! This stylish and practical bag is perfect for everyday wear and a fantastic example of upcycling.

What unique details from your old jeans (like distressed patches or original seams) did you manage to incorporate into your crossbody bag?

Video Tutorial



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How to Sew a Denim Shoulder Bag from Old Jeans✂👜


Transforming old jeans into a stylish and practical shoulder bag is a fantastic way to give new life to denim you no longer wear. Denim's durability makes it perfect for a bag that will see a lot of use, and the unique washes and existing details (like pockets or seams) of old jeans can add character to your finished project.

This detailed tutorial will guide you through creating a versatile denim shoulder bag with a zippered main compartment, an exterior slip pocket (using a jean's back pocket!), and an adjustable strap. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 10 inches (25 cm) wide, 8 inches (20 cm) tall, and 2 inches (5 cm) deep, a great size for everyday essentials.

How to Sew a Denim Shoulder Bag from Old Jeans

This project is suitable for intermediate sewers, as it involves zipper installation and working with thicker fabrics. However, the step-by-step instructions will help you navigate each part.

I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials

Careful preparation is key for a smooth sewing process and a durable, well-finished bag.

  • Old Jeans:

    • Quantity: 1 pair of adult-sized jeans (or even two if you want to mix washes or ensure you have enough continuous fabric). Look for sturdy, non-stretch or low-stretch denim. Avoid very thin or heavily distressed/ripped areas, unless you plan to heavily reinforce them.

    • Preparation: Wash and thoroughly dry your jeans before cutting. This prevents shrinkage later and makes them easier to work with.

  • Lining Fabric:

    • Type: A durable woven cotton, such as quilting cotton, broadcloth, or an old cotton sheet. A contrasting color or fun print can add a nice touch.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).

    • Preparation: Wash and iron.

  • Interfacing (Highly Recommended for Structure):

    • Type: Medium-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex). This will give your denim and lining more stability and help the bag hold its shape.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).

  • Zipper:

    • Type: A sturdy nylon coil zipper (easier to sew than metal).

    • Length: At least 12 inches (30 cm) for the main bag opening. Longer is fine; you'll trim it.

  • Webbing for Adjustable Strap:

    • Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1.5 yards (1.4 meters).

  • Hardware for Adjustable Strap:

    • 2 D-rings: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).

    • 1 Slider/Adjuster Buckle: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).

  • Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A stronger, heavy-duty thread (like topstitching thread or upholstery thread) is highly recommended for sewing through multiple layers of denim and for topstitching.

  • Basic Sewing Tools:

    • Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 14 or 16, is essential for sewing through thick denim).

    • Zipper foot: Crucial for sewing close to zipper teeth.

    • Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine.

    • Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.

    • Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.

    • Fabric Chalk, Frixion Pen, or Mark-B-Gone Pen.

    • Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are invaluable for holding thick denim!).

    • Iron and Ironing Board.

    • Seam Ripper (your best friend!).

II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces

Accuracy in cutting is crucial for a well-shaped bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.

1. Deconstruct Your Jeans

  • Lay your washed and ironed jeans flat.

  • Cut off the legs just below the crotch seam.

  • Carefully unpick (seam rip) the inseam (the inner leg seam) and the outer leg seam of both legs. This will give you large, flat pieces of denim. Press them flat.

  • Harvest a Back Pocket: Carefully cut off one back pocket, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance around its stitched edges. This will be your exterior slip pocket.

2. Cut Main Bag Panels (Denim & Lining)

  • From your Denim (Exterior Fabric):

    • Main Exterior Body Panels: 2 pieces, 11 inches wide x 9 inches tall (28 cm W x 23 cm H). (Front and Back of the bag).

    • Side/Bottom Band: 1 piece, 25 inches long x 3 inches tall (63.5 cm L x 7.6 cm H). This piece will form the continuous side and bottom of your bag.

    • Strap Connectors: 2 pieces, 3 inches long x 2 inches wide (7.6 cm L x 5 cm W).

  • From your Lining Fabric:

    • Main Lining Panels: 2 pieces, 11 inches wide x 9 inches tall (28 cm W x 23 cm H).

    • Side/Bottom Lining Band: 1 piece, 25 inches long x 3 inches tall (63.5 cm L x 7.6 cm H).

  • From your Interfacing:

    • Cut pieces slightly smaller (e.g., 1/2 inch smaller on each side) than all corresponding denim exterior panels (Main Exterior Body Panels, Side/Bottom Band, and Strap Connectors).

    • Fuse Interfacing: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of all the corresponding denim pieces. Center the interfacing so there's a 1/2-inch border of fabric exposed on all sides for the seam allowance.

3. Prepare Webbing for Strap

  • Cut the webbing into one 50-inch (127 cm) piece. (This length allows for adjustability; you can trim if desired).


III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Use your denim needle and heavy-duty thread for all denim sections. A walking foot is highly recommended. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement.

Step 1: Attach Exterior Pocket

  1. Take one of your Main Exterior Body Panels (11" x 9"). Lay it right side up.

  2. Position the jean back pocket where you'd like it (e.g., centered on the lower half of the panel). Pin securely in place (clips work well for this).

  3. Stitch the pocket onto the denim panel, very close to the existing stitched edges of the pocket. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack stitch for extra durability, as pockets are high-use areas.

Step 2: Prepare Strap Connectors

  1. Take one Denim Strap Connector (3" x 2"). Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so it measures 1.5" x 2". Press.

  2. Open it up. Fold each long raw edge into the center crease you just made. Press again.

  3. Fold the entire strip in half lengthwise once more, enclosing all raw edges. Press firmly. You should now have a strip that is about 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) wide.

  4. Stitch along both long edges of this strip, close to the folded edges, to secure them.

  5. Thread one end of a D-ring onto this strip. Fold the strip in half around the D-ring, aligning the raw ends. Stitch the raw ends together securely, about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) from the D-ring. This creates a small D-ring tab.

  6. Repeat for the second Denim Strap Connector and D-ring.

Step 3: Attach Strap Connectors to Main Exterior Panels

  1. Take one Main Exterior Body Panel (with pocket if added). Lay it right side up.

  2. Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) down from each of the top corners (along the 11-inch edge). These are your attachment points.

  3. Place one of the prepared D-ring tabs onto one of these marks, aligning the raw end of the tab with the raw side edge of the main panel. The D-ring should point inwards, towards the center of the panel. Pin securely.

  4. Stitch the tab in place within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, using a small square or bar tack stitch for reinforcement.

  5. Repeat for the second D-ring tab on the other side of the same main panel.

  6. Repeat this entire step for the second Main Exterior Body Panel (without a pocket).

Step 4: Install the Main Zipper

  1. Lay one Main Exterior Body Panel (with D-ring tabs) right side up.

  2. Place the zipper right side down along the top 11-inch raw edge of the panel, aligning the zipper tape's raw edge with the fabric's raw edge. Center the zipper horizontally. The zipper pull should be facing inwards (towards the bag). Pin in place.

  3. Take one Main Lining Panel (11" x 9"). Place it right side down on top of the zipper/exterior fabric sandwich, aligning all three raw edges (exterior fabric, zipper, lining fabric).

  4. Pin all three layers together.

  5. Using your zipper foot, stitch along this pinned edge, as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

  6. Open out the fabric so the exterior and lining are wrong sides together, with the zipper visible between them. Press well.

  7. Topstitch: On the right side of the exterior fabric, topstitch close to the seam line, just above the zipper. This secures the fabric away from the zipper teeth and gives a neat finish.

  8. Repeat this process for the other side of the zipper, attaching it to the remaining raw edges of the second Main Exterior Body Panel and the second Main Lining Panel.

    • Lay out the partially assembled bag. Bring the remaining raw edge of the second exterior panel to the other side of the zipper. Place the remaining raw edge of the second lining panel to the other side of the zipper. Pin, stitch, open, press, and topstitch.

You should now have a complete "tube" with the zipper running down the center. Crucially, open the zipper halfway at this point! This is essential for turning the bag right side out later.

Step 5: Assemble the Exterior Bag Body

  1. Take your Denim Side/Bottom Band (25" x 3").

  2. Place one Main Exterior Body Panel (the one with the exterior pocket if you added one, or simply the front) right sides together with the Side/Bottom Band. Align the bottom corner of the exterior panel with one end of the band.

  3. Pin the exterior panel to the band, working your way around the bottom and sides. You'll need to clip into the seam allowance of the band slightly at the corners of the main panel to help it curve smoothly.

  4. Stitch all the way around this connection, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Go slowly around the corners.

  5. Repeat this process to attach the second Main Exterior Body Panel to the remaining end of the Side/Bottom Band.

  6. Once both panels are attached, bring the two short ends of the Side/Bottom Band together (right sides facing) to form a complete loop, enclosing the main panels. Stitch this seam. Press all seams open. This forms the complete exterior shell of your bag.

Step 6: Assemble the Lining Bag

  1. Take your Lining Side/Bottom Band (25" x 3"). Stitch its short ends together (right sides facing) to form a loop. Press seam open.

  2. Follow the same steps as in Step 5 to attach the two Main Lining Panels to the Side/Bottom Lining Band.

  3. Crucial: Leave a 4-5 inch (10-12.7 cm) opening in the center of the bottom seam of your Side/Bottom Lining Band. This opening is essential for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of your stitching around this gap.

  4. Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.

Step 7: Combine Exterior and Lining

  1. Keep the exterior denim bag turned right side out.

  2. Keep the lining bag turned inside out.

  3. Carefully insert the exterior denim bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.

  4. Align the top raw edge of the denim bag's opening (where the zipper is sewn to the denim) with the top raw edge of the lining bag's opening (where the zipper is sewn to the lining). Make sure all seams match up (side seams of exterior to side seams of lining). All D-ring tabs and the strap should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers.

  5. Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the bag.


Step 8: Final Top Seam

  1. Stitch all the way around the top opening of the bag, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end. You'll be sewing through the zipper tape, exterior denim, and lining fabric.

  2. Clip curves/trim bulk: Clip into the seam allowance around any curves (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially near the zipper ends and strap tabs.

Step 9: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Close Opening

  1. Reach into the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining (from Step 6).

  2. Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, strap tabs – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze due to the denim and interfacing, so be patient and gentle.

  3. Gently push out all the corners and seams with a point turner or a blunt object (like a chopstick) to make them crisp and well-defined.

  4. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.

  5. Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside.

  6. Give your finished bag a good final press, paying special attention to the zipper area to make it lie flat and neat.

Step 10: Assemble the Adjustable Shoulder Strap

  1. Take your 50-inch webbing piece.

  2. Thread one end of the webbing through the center bar of your slider/adjuster buckle, going over the top and then under. Pull about 2 inches (5 cm) through.

  3. Fold this end back on itself by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the first end to the adjuster.

  4. Take the other end of the webbing. Thread it through one of the D-rings on your bag.

  5. Now, thread this same end of the webbing through the slider/adjuster buckle, going under the top bar and over the bottom bar (the one you just secured). This creates the adjustable loop.

  6. Finally, thread the webbing through the second D-ring on your bag.

  7. Fold the end of the webbing back by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the second end of the strap to the other D-ring.

Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a durable and unique DIY Denim Shoulder Bag from Old Jeans! It's ready to carry your essentials, perfectly suited to your style, and a fantastic example of upcycling.

What personal touches or decorative elements did you add to your bag to make it truly yours?

Video Tutorial
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How to Sew a Large, Simple, Upcycled Tote Bag👜✂


It's fantastic that you want to upcycle and sew a large, simple, and easy-to-use bag! These types of bags are incredibly versatile—perfect for groceries, beach trips, laundry, or just carrying everyday essentials. The beauty of a simple design is that it's quick to make and forgiving for beginners, while still being highly functional.

Let's create a sturdy, spacious box-bottom tote bag from repurposed fabric. This design is straightforward to sew and results in a bag that stands up on its own, making it super easy to use and load. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 16 inches (40 cm) wide, 14 inches (35 cm) tall, and 6 inches (15 cm) deep.

How to Sew a Large, Simple, Upcycled Tote Bag

This project is great for beginners and can be completed relatively quickly. The main skills involved are cutting, sewing straight lines, and basic corner construction.

I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials

The success of your upcycled bag starts with your material choices. Look around your home for fabrics that are durable and have a bit of weight to them.

  • Upcycled Fabric for Exterior:

    • Quantity: You'll need a piece of sturdy fabric approximately 28 inches (71 cm) long x 34 inches (86 cm) wide, or enough smaller pieces that can be sewn together to achieve this size.

    • Ideas for Upcycling:

      • Old Jeans/Denim: Excellent choice for durability! You'll need to cut open the legs and piece them together if you want a continuous panel, or embrace a patchwork look.

      • Canvas Drop Cloths: Inexpensive and very strong, often found at hardware stores.

      • Old Curtains or Upholstery Fabric: Look for thick, tightly woven fabrics.

      • Old Jackets/Coats: Heavy fabric like corduroy, wool blends, or sturdy cotton jackets.

      • Thick Tablecloths or Placemats: Could be incorporated into the design.

    • Preparation: Always wash and thoroughly dry your chosen fabric before cutting to prevent future shrinkage and to ensure it's clean. Iron it flat.

  • Upcycled Fabric for Lining (Optional, but Recommended for Durability & Finish):

    • Quantity: You'll need a piece of lighter-weight fabric approximately 28 inches (71 cm) long x 34 inches (86 cm) wide, or enough pieces to achieve this size.

    • Ideas for Upcycling: Old bedsheets, duvet covers, tablecloths, large old shirts (if pieced), or even lighter-weight curtains.

    • Preparation: Wash and iron.

  • Handles:

    • Option 1: Webbing: 1 inch (2.5 cm) or 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide cotton or polypropylene webbing. You'll need two pieces, each 26 inches (66 cm) long. This is the easiest and strongest option.

    • Option 2: Fabric from your Upcycled Clothes: Cut two strips from sturdy parts of your upcycled fabric (e.g., jean waistbands, or fabric strips 3 inches / 7.6 cm wide x 27 inches / 68.5 cm long). You'll need to fold and stitch these to make them strong.

    • Option 3: Old Belt: A sturdy old belt can be cut and repurposed into a unique handle.

  • Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. For very thick fabrics like denim, consider a heavy-duty or topstitching thread if your machine can handle it.

  • Basic Sewing Tools:

    • Sewing machine (a heavy-duty needle like a size 16 or 18 is crucial for thick fabrics).

    • Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine.

    • Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.

    • Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.

    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen.

    • Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are especially useful for bulky fabrics!).

    • Iron and Ironing Board.

    • Seam Ripper (your best friend for undoing stitches!).

II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces

Accuracy in cutting is important for a neat bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.

1. Cut Main Bag Panels (Exterior & Lining)

  • From your Upcycled Exterior Fabric:

    • Cut 1 rectangle, 34 inches (86 cm) long x 28 inches (71 cm) wide. This piece will form the front, back, and bottom of your tote in one continuous piece.

  • From your Upcycled Lining Fabric:

    • Cut 1 rectangle, 34 inches (86 cm) long x 28 inches (71 cm) wide.

2. Prepare Handles

  • If using webbing: No preparation needed, just ensure they are cut to 26 inches (66 cm).

  • If making fabric handles (e.g., from denim scraps):

    • Cut two strips, each 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide x 27 inches (68.5 cm) long.

    • Fold each strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press firmly.

    • Open the fold, then fold each long raw edge in towards the center crease you just made. Press again.

    • Fold the entire strip in half lengthwise once more, enclosing all raw edges. Press firmly. You should now have a strip that is about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) wide.

    • Topstitch along both long edges of each handle, close to the folded edges. This secures the folds and adds strength.


III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Remember to press your seams after each step for a professional finish. Use your heavy-duty needle and a walking foot (if you have one) when sewing through thick layers. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement, especially on handles.

Step 1: Attach Handles to Exterior Bag Panel

  1. Lay your Exterior Fabric rectangle (34" x 28") right side up.

  2. Imagine dividing the 34-inch length into three sections: 14 inches (one side), 6 inches (bottom), 14 inches (other side). The 28-inch width is the height of your bag.

  3. Find the handle placement: On each of the two 28-inch (height) sides, measure 4 inches (10 cm) in from each side edge. Mark these points.

  4. Place the raw ends of one handle onto these marks, aligning the raw edges of the webbing with the raw 28-inch edge of the exterior panel. The handle loop should face inwards, towards the center of the panel. Pin securely.

  5. Stitch the handles in place with a strong reinforcing stitch (e.g., stitch a square with an "X" inside it), within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. This is crucial for handle strength.

  6. Repeat for the second handle on the opposite 28-inch side of the Exterior Fabric Panel.

Step 2: Assemble the Exterior Bag

  1. Fold the Exterior Fabric panel in half, right sides together, so it now measures 17 inches (43 cm) long x 28 inches (71 cm) wide. The handles will be inside the fold. Align the raw 28-inch side edges.

  2. Pin securely along these two 28-inch side edges.

  3. Stitch down both side seams, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance.

  4. Finish Raw Edges (Recommended): Use a zigzag stitch or serger along all raw seam allowances to prevent fraying and add durability. Press seams open.

Step 3: Create Boxed Corners for Exterior Bag

This step creates the flat, defined bottom of your tote.

  1. At one of the bottom corners of the exterior bag (still inside out), gently pinch the corner so the previously sewn side seam aligns perfectly with the bottom fold. This will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.

  2. Measure from the point of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 6-inch deep bag, you'll measure 3 inches / 7.6 cm).

  3. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point. This line should be equal to your desired bag depth (e.g., 6 inches / 15 cm).

  4. Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.

  5. Trim the excess fabric triangle from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.

  6. Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of the exterior bag.

  7. Turn the exterior bag right side out. Push out the boxed corners with your fingers or a blunt tool to make them crisp.

Step 4: Assemble the Lining Bag (Repeat Steps 2 & 3, with one crucial modification)

  1. Fold the Lining Fabric panel in half, right sides together, so it measures 17 inches (43 cm) long x 28 inches (71 cm) wide. Align the raw 28-inch side edges.

  2. Pin securely along these two 28-inch side edges.

  3. Stitch down both side seams, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance.

  4. Crucial: Leave a 5-6 inch (12.7-15 cm) opening along the center of one of these side seams. This opening is absolutely crucial for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch well at the beginning and end of your stitching around this gap.

  5. Create boxed corners on the lining bag just like you did for the exterior bag (Step 3), ensuring they are the same depth (3 inches / 7.6 cm in from the corner point).

  6. Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.


Step 5: Combine Exterior and Lining

  1. Keep the exterior bag turned right side out.

  2. Keep the lining bag turned inside out.

  3. Carefully insert the exterior bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.

  4. Align the top raw edges of the exterior bag and the lining bag. Make sure the side seams of the exterior match up with the side seams of the lining. The handles of the exterior bag should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers.

  5. Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the bag.

Step 6: Sew Top Edge and Finish

  1. Stitch all the way around the top edge of the bag, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

  2. Clip curves/trim bulk: If you have any slight curves, clip into the seam allowance (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially where the handles are attached.

Step 7: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Close Opening

  1. Reach into the opening you left in the side seam of the lining (from Step 4).

  2. Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze, so be patient.

  3. Gently push out all the boxed corners of the main bag and the lining, using a point turner or a blunt object (like a chopstick) to make them crisp and well-defined.

  4. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the side seam of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.

  5. Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside and the corners align.

  6. Give your finished tote a good final press to remove any wrinkles and make it look crisp.

Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a durable, simple, and easy-to-use large upcycled tote bag! This versatile bag is perfect for all sorts of uses and showcases your creativity and commitment to sustainable crafting.

What kind of unique upcycled material did you choose for your bag?

Video Tutorial



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How to Sew a DIY Denim Zipper Tote Bag from Scrap Old Jeans👜🧵


It's a fantastic idea to repurpose old denim scraps into a functional and stylish zipper tote bag! This project is not only eco-friendly but also allows you to create a truly unique accessory from varied denim washes and textures. Unlike using larger leg pieces, working with scraps means you'll be piecing smaller sections together, which can add to the charm and character of the bag.

This tutorial will guide you through sewing a medium-sized zippered tote bag from denim scraps, featuring a flat bottom and an interior pocket. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 14 inches (35 cm) wide, 12 inches (30 cm) tall, and 4 inches (10 cm) deep.

How to Sew a DIY Denim Zipper Tote Bag from Scrap Old Jeans

This project is suitable for an intermediate sewer due to the piecing of denim scraps and zipper installation. However, detailed instructions will help guide you through each step.

I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials

Careful preparation is key, especially when working with scraps!

  • Old Jeans/Denim Scraps:

    • Quantity: You'll need a collection of denim scraps from various parts of old jeans (legs, pockets, waistbands, etc.). Aim for enough flat pieces to cut the required panels. Different washes (light, dark, faded) will create a cool patchwork effect.

    • Type: Sturdy, non-stretch or low-stretch denim works best for durability. Avoid very thin or heavily distressed/ripped areas unless you plan to heavily reinforce them.

    • Preparation: Wash and thoroughly dry all denim scraps. Press them flat, seam-ripping any existing seams to get the largest possible flat pieces.

  • Lining Fabric:

    • Type: A durable woven cotton, such as quilting cotton, broadcloth, or even a sturdy old cotton sheet. A contrasting color or pattern can add a fun pop.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1 yard (0.9 meters).

    • Preparation: Wash and iron.

  • Interfacing (Highly Recommended for Structure):

    • Type: Medium-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex for a softer bag, or Pellon 809 Decor Bond for a stiffer bag). This will give your denim and lining more stability and help the bag hold its shape.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1 yard (0.9 meters).

  • Zipper:

    • Type: A sturdy, nylon coil zipper is generally easier to sew for bags than a metal one.

    • Length: At least 16 inches (40 cm) for the main top opening. Longer is fine, you'll trim it.

  • Webbing for Handles:

    • Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1.5 yards (1.4 meters) total (two 26-inch / 66 cm pieces).

  • Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A stronger, heavy-duty thread (like topstitching thread or upholstery thread) is highly recommended for sewing through multiple layers of denim and for topstitching.

  • Basic Sewing Tools:

    • Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 16 or 18, is essential for sewing through thick denim).

    • Zipper foot: Essential for sewing close to zipper teeth.

    • Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine.

    • Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.

    • Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.

    • Fabric Chalk, Frixion Pen, or Mark-B-Gone Pen.

    • Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are invaluable for holding thick denim!).

    • Iron and Ironing Board.

    • Seam Ripper (your ever-present friend!).

II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces

Accuracy in cutting is crucial for a well-shaped bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.

1. Create Your Denim "Fabric" from Scraps

  • This is the most creative part! Lay out your flattened denim scraps.

  • Piece together your scraps to form larger panels. You can sew them together in strips, squares, or whatever patchwork design you like. Stitch them with a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, pressing seams open as you go to reduce bulk.

  • Once you have a large enough piece of pieced denim (or one large clean piece if you got lucky with your scraps!), you can cut your main bag panels.

2. Cut Main Bag Panels (Denim & Lining)

  • From your pieced Denim (Exterior Fabric):

    • Main Exterior Panels: Cut 2 rectangles, 15 inches wide x 13 inches tall (38 cm W x 33 cm H). (These will be your front and back).

    • Side/Bottom Band: Cut 1 long rectangle, 45 inches long x 5 inches tall (114 cm L x 12.7 cm H). This piece will form the continuous side and bottom of your tote.

  • From your Lining Fabric:

    • Main Lining Panels: Cut 2 rectangles, 15 inches wide x 13 inches tall (38 cm W x 33 cm H).

    • Side/Bottom Lining Band: Cut 1 long rectangle, 45 inches long x 5 inches tall (114 cm L x 12.7 cm H).

    • Interior Pocket Panel (Optional): Cut 1 rectangle, 14 inches tall x 10 inches wide (35.6 cm T x 25.4 cm W).

  • From your Interfacing:

    • Cut pieces slightly smaller (e.g., 1/2 inch smaller on each side) than all corresponding denim exterior panels (Main Exterior Panels and Side/Bottom Band). Also cut for the Interior Pocket.

    • Fuse Interfacing: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of all the corresponding denim and interior pocket pieces. Center the interfacing so there's a 1/2-inch border of fabric exposed on all sides for the seam allowance.

3. Prepare Handles

  • Webbing Handles: Cut two pieces of webbing, each 26 inches (66 cm) long.


III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Use your denim needle and heavy-duty thread for all denim sections. A walking foot is highly recommended. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement.

Step 1: Prepare the Interior Pocket (Optional)

  1. Take your Interior Pocket Panel (14" x 10"). Fold it in half (wrong sides together) to measure 7" x 10". Press.

  2. Hem the top raw edge (what will be the top of the pocket) by folding 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) down towards the wrong side, pressing, then folding another 1/2 inch and pressing. Stitch this hem in place, close to the inner fold.

  3. Place this pocket onto one of your Main Lining Panels, centering it horizontally about 3-4 inches (7.6-10 cm) down from what will be the top edge of the lining. Pin in place.

  4. Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, very close to the edge. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack for durability. You can add vertical stitching to create compartments if desired.

Step 2: Attach Handles to Exterior Panels

  1. Take one Main Exterior Panel (15" x 13") and lay it right side up.

  2. Measure 4 inches (10 cm) in from each of the 15-inch (width) side edges, along the top raw edge of the panel. Mark these points.

  3. Place the raw ends of one webbing handle onto these marks, aligning the raw edges of the webbing with the raw top edge of the bag panel. The handle loop should face downwards onto the bag panel.

  4. Pin securely. Stitch the handles in place with a strong reinforcing stitch (e.g., stitch a square with an "X" inside it), within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. This is crucial for handle strength.

  5. Repeat for the second handle on the second Main Exterior Panel.

Step 3: Attach Side/Bottom Band to Main Exterior Panels

  1. Take your Side/Bottom Band (45" x 5"). Lay it flat, right side up.

  2. Place one Main Exterior Panel (with handles attached) right sides together with the Side/Bottom Band. Align the bottom corner of the exterior panel with one end of the band.

  3. Pin the exterior panel to the band, working your way around the bottom and sides. You'll need to clip into the seam allowance of the band slightly at the corners of the main panel to help it curve smoothly.

    • Tip: Think of this as sewing a "box" where the band forms the four sides and bottom.

  4. Stitch all the way around this connection, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Go slowly around the corners.

  5. Repeat this process to attach the second Main Exterior Panel to the remaining end of the Side/Bottom Band.

  6. Once both panels are attached, bring the two short ends of the Side/Bottom Band together (right sides facing) to form a complete loop, enclosing the main panels. Stitch this seam. Press all seams open.

Step 4: Install the Main Zipper

  1. Lay out the assembled exterior bag. It should be a denim "box" with an open top.

  2. Take your zipper. Place it right side down along the top raw edge of the exterior bag's opening. Center the zipper horizontally. The zipper tape should align with the raw edge of the bag. Pin in place.

  3. Using your zipper foot, stitch along this pinned edge, as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

  4. Crucially: Open the zipper halfway at this point! This is essential for turning the bag right side out later.

  5. Repeat for the Lining Bag: Take your assembled lining bag (from Step 5 below). Place its open top raw edge right side down on the other side of the zipper tape, aligning raw edges. Pin and stitch.


Step 5: Assemble the Lining Bag

  1. Take your Side/Bottom Lining Band (45" x 5"). Stitch its short ends together (right sides facing) to form a loop. Press seam open.

  2. Follow the same steps as in Step 3 to attach the two Main Lining Panels (one with pocket) to the Side/Bottom Lining Band.

  3. Crucial: Leave a 5-6 inch (12.7-15 cm) opening in the center of the bottom seam of your Side/Bottom Lining Band. This opening is essential for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of this opening.

  4. Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.

Step 6: Combine Exterior and Lining

  1. Keep the exterior denim bag turned right side out.

  2. Keep the lining bag turned inside out.

  3. Carefully insert the exterior denim bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.

  4. Align the top raw edge of the denim bag's opening (where the zipper is sewn to the denim) with the top raw edge of the lining bag's opening (where the zipper is sewn to the lining). Make sure all seams match up (side seams of exterior to side seams of lining). All handles and webbing of the exterior bag should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers.

  5. Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the bag.

Step 7: Final Top Seam

  1. Stitch all the way around the top opening of the bag, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end. You'll be sewing through the zipper tape, exterior denim, and lining fabric.

  2. Clip curves/trim bulk: Clip into the seam allowance around any curves (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially near the zipper ends and handles.

Step 8: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Close Opening

  1. Reach into the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining (from Step 5).

  2. Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze due to the denim and interfacing, so be patient and gentle.

  3. Gently push out all the corners and seams with a point turner or a blunt object (like a chopstick) to make them crisp and well-defined.

  4. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.

  5. Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside.

  6. Give your finished tote a good final press, paying special attention to the zipper area to make it lie flat and neat.

Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a durable and unique DIY Denim Zipper Tote Bag from Scraps of Old Jeans! It's ready for your daily errands, shopping, or as a stylish everyday carry-all, all while showcasing your creative upcycling skills.

What kind of unique denim washes or details did you incorporate into your patchwork design?

Video Tutorial



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How to Sew a Denim Tote Bag from the Hem of Old Jeans🧵👜


That's a clever idea! The hem of old jeans is a fantastic resource for upcycling because it's already finished, strong, and often has interesting topstitching. This tutorial will show you how to leverage those existing hems to create a sturdy and stylish DIY denim tote bag. This method is particularly good for using up those otherwise tricky-to-utilize jean legs.

We'll aim for a simple, yet functional tote, approximately 12 inches (30 cm) wide x 14 inches (35 cm) tall, with a flat bottom.

How to Sew a Denim Tote Bag from the Hem of Old Jeans

This project is suitable for a beginner to intermediate sewer. The main challenge will be sewing through the thick denim hems, so a good needle and proper machine settings are key!

I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials

Careful preparation makes all the difference!

  • Old Jeans:

    • Quantity: 1-2 pairs of adult-sized jeans. Look for straight-leg or bootcut jeans; they have wider hems and more usable fabric.

    • Type: Sturdy, non-stretch or low-stretch denim works best.

    • Preparation: Wash and dry your jeans thoroughly before cutting. This prevents any future shrinkage and makes the fabric easier to handle.

  • Lining Fabric (Recommended):

    • Type: A durable woven cotton, like quilting cotton, broadcloth, or an old cotton sheet. A contrasting color or pattern can add a fun touch.

    • Quantity: Approximately 2/3 yard (0.6 meters).

    • Preparation: Wash and iron.

  • Interfacing (Optional, but Recommended for Structure):

    • Type: Medium-weight fusible interfacing. This will give your bag more body and help it hold its shape.

    • Quantity: Approximately 2/3 yard (0.6 meters).

  • Webbing for Handles:

    • Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

    • Quantity: Approximately 1.5 yards (1.4 meters) total (two 26-inch / 66 cm pieces).

  • Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A heavy-duty thread (like topstitching thread) is highly recommended for sewing through the thick denim hems and for a more professional finish.

  • Basic Sewing Tools:

    • Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 16 or 18, is essential).

    • Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine.

    • Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.

    • Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.

    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen.

    • Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are invaluable for thick denim!).

    • Iron and Ironing Board.

    • Seam Ripper (your ever-present friend!).

II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces

Accuracy in cutting is crucial for a well-shaped bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.

1. Deconstruct Your Jeans & Harvest Hems

  • Lay your washed and ironed jeans flat.

  • Cut off the legs just above the existing hem. You want to keep the full, original hem intact. Cut a few inches above the hem to give yourself plenty of fabric to work with.

  • Carefully unpick (seam rip) the inseam (the inner leg seam) and the outer leg seam of both legs. This will give you large, flat pieces of denim with the original hems still attached. Press them flat.

  • Harvest Pockets (Optional): If you want to use the back pockets of the jeans as exterior pockets on your tote, carefully cut them off, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance around the existing stitched edges of the pocket.

2. Cut Main Bag Panels (Denim & Lining)

  • From your Denim (Exterior Fabric):

    • From your flattened denim pieces, cut 2 rectangles, 13 inches wide x 15 inches tall (33 cm W x 38 cm H).

    • Crucially: Ensure the original jean hem is at the bottom of your 15-inch height on both panels. This will become the top opening of your tote bag. The raw edges will be at the bottom and sides.

  • From your Lining Fabric:

    • Cut 2 rectangles, 13 inches wide x 15 inches tall (33 cm W x 38 cm H).

  • From your Interfacing (If using):

    • Cut 2 rectangles, 12 inches wide x 14 inches tall (30.5 cm W x 35.6 cm H). These are slightly smaller than the fabric to reduce bulk in the seam allowances.

    • Fuse Interfacing: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of your two denim exterior panels. Center the interfacing so there's a 1/2-inch border of denim exposed on all sides for the seam allowance.

3. Prepare Handles

  • Webbing Handles: Cut two pieces of webbing, each 26 inches (66 cm) long.


III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Use your denim needle and heavy-duty thread for all denim sections. A walking foot is highly recommended for sewing through the thick denim hems. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement.

Step 1: Add Exterior Pockets (Optional)

  • If using jean back pockets:

    1. Take one of your denim exterior panels (with interfacing fused). Lay it right side up.

    2. Decide where you want to place the pocket (e.g., centered on the lower half of the bag).

    3. Place the pocket onto the panel, ensuring it's straight. Pin securely in place (clips work really well here).

    4. Stitch the pocket onto the bag panel close to the existing stitched edges of the pocket. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack stitch for extra durability, as pockets get a lot of use.

Step 2: Attach Handles to Exterior Panels

  1. Take one denim exterior panel (with any pockets attached) and lay it right side up. The existing jean hem should be at the top.

  2. Measure 3.5 inches (9 cm) in from each side edge, along the top (hemmed) edge of the panel. Mark these points.

  3. Place the raw ends of one webbing handle onto these marks, aligning the raw edges of the webbing with the top (hemmed) edge of the bag panel. The handle loop should face downwards onto the bag panel.

  4. Pin securely. Stitch the handles in place with a strong reinforcing stitch (e.g., stitch a square with an "X" inside it), within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. This is crucial for handle strength.

  5. Repeat for the second handle on the second denim exterior panel.

Step 3: Assemble the Exterior Bag

  1. Place your two assembled denim exterior panels (with handles attached) right sides together, aligning the side raw edges and the bottom raw edges. Ensure your handle loops are tucked neatly inside so they don't get caught in the seams.

  2. Pin securely along the side raw edges and the bottom raw edge.

  3. Stitch down both side seams and across the bottom seam, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.

  4. Finish Raw Edges (Recommended): Use a zigzag stitch or serger along all raw seam allowances of the exterior bag to prevent fraying and add durability. Press seams open.

Step 4: Create Boxed Corners for Exterior Bag (Optional, but gives a flat bottom)

This step gives your bag a flat, defined bottom.

  1. At one of the bottom corners of the exterior bag (still inside out), gently pinch the corner so the previously sewn side seam aligns perfectly with the newly sewn bottom seam. This will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.

  2. Measure from the point of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 2-inch deep bag, you'll measure 1 inch / 2.5 cm).

  3. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point. This line should be equal to your desired bag depth (e.g., 2 inches / 5 cm).

  4. Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.

  5. Trim the excess fabric triangle from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.

  6. Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of the exterior bag.

  7. Turn the exterior bag right side out. Push out the boxed corners with your fingers or a blunt tool to make them crisp.


Step 5: Assemble the Lining Bag (Repeat Steps 3 & 4, with one crucial modification)

  1. Place your two lining fabric panels right sides together.

  2. Stitch down both side seams and across the bottom seam, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance.

  3. IMPORTANT: Leave a 4-5 inch (10-12.7 cm) opening along the center of the bottom seam of the lining. This opening is absolutely crucial for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch well at the beginning and end of your stitching around this gap.

  4. Create boxed corners on the lining bag just like you did for the exterior bag (Step 4), ensuring they are the same depth.

  5. Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.

Step 6: Combine Exterior and Lining

  1. Keep the exterior bag turned right side out.

  2. Keep the lining bag turned inside out.

  3. Carefully insert the exterior bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.

  4. Align the top (hemmed) edge of the exterior bag with the top raw edge of the lining bag. Make sure the side seams of the exterior match up with the side seams of the lining. The handles of the exterior bag should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers.

  5. Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the lining to the hemmed edge of the denim exterior.

Step 7: Sew Top Edge and Finish

  1. Stitch all the way around the top opening of the bag, approximately 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) from the top hemmed edge of the denim. This will secure the lining to the denim, and you'll be sewing through the thick denim hem. Go slowly and carefully.

  2. Topstitch (Optional but Recommended): For an even neater finish, topstitch again about 1/4 inch from your first line of stitching, closer to the raw edge of the lining (which is now inside the bag). This creates a durable and professional-looking top edge.

Step 8: Close Lining Opening

  1. Reach into the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining (from Step 5).

  2. Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out.

  3. Gently push out all the boxed corners of the main bag and the lining to make them crisp and well-defined.

  4. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch** for a truly seamless look.

  5. Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside and the corners align.

  6. Give your finished tote a good final press.

Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a unique and eco-friendly DIY Denim Tote Bag from the Hem of Old Jeans! This sturdy tote is perfect for everyday use, shopping, or carrying your essentials, all while showcasing your clever upcycling skills.

What kind of unique details did your old jean hems have?

Video Tutorial



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