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Making a no-zipper denim crossbody bag from old jeans is a fantastic upcycling project! It's an excellent way to create a stylish, durable, and practical bag without the challenge of zipper installation, making it more beginner-friendly. We'll focus on a simple design with a flap closure for security.
This detailed tutorial will guide you through creating a simple, flap-over crossbody bag with an adjustable strap, perfect for carrying essentials. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 9 inches (23 cm) wide, 7 inches (18 cm) tall, and 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) deep.
How to Sew a DIY Simple No-Zipper Denim Crossbody Bag from Old Jeans
This project is great for beginners looking to work with denim and create a functional accessory. The key elements are straightforward construction and a simple flap closure.
I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials
Careful preparation is crucial for a smooth sewing process and a durable, well-finished bag.
Old Jeans:
Quantity: 1 pair of adult-sized jeans. Look for sturdy, non-stretch or low-stretch denim. Straight-leg or bootcut jeans offer more continuous fabric.
Preparation: Wash and thoroughly dry your jeans before cutting. This prevents shrinkage later and makes them easier to work with.
Lining Fabric:
Type: A durable woven cotton, like quilting cotton, broadcloth, or an old cotton sheet. A contrasting color or fun print can add a nice touch.
Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).
Preparation: Wash and iron.
Interfacing (Highly Recommended for Structure):
Type: Medium-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex). This will give your denim and lining more stability and help the bag hold its shape.
Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).
Webbing for Adjustable Strap:
Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.
Quantity: Approximately 1.5 yards (1.4 meters).
Hardware for Adjustable Strap:
2 D-rings: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).
1 Slider/Adjuster Buckle: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).
Closure:
Magnetic Snap: (Recommended for ease of use) 1 set.
Velcro: A 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) strip.
Button and Buttonhole: If you're comfortable with buttonholes.
Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A stronger, heavy-duty thread (like topstitching thread) is highly recommended for sewing through multiple layers of denim and for topstitching.
Basic Sewing Tools:
Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 14 or 16, is essential for sewing through thick denim).
Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine.
Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.
Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.
Fabric Chalk, Frixion Pen, or Mark-B-Gone Pen.
Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are invaluable for holding thick denim!).
Iron and Ironing Board.
Seam Ripper (your best friend!).
Awl or small sharp scissors: For installing magnetic snaps.
II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces
Accuracy in cutting is crucial for a well-shaped bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.
1. Deconstruct Your Jeans
Lay your washed and ironed jeans flat.
Cut off the legs just below the crotch seam.
Carefully unpick (seam rip) the inseam (the inner leg seam) and the outer leg seam of both legs. This will give you large, flat pieces of denim. Press them flat.
Harvest a Back Pocket (Optional): Carefully cut off one back pocket, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance around its stitched edges. This can be your exterior slip pocket.
2. Cut Main Bag Panels (Denim & Lining)
From your Denim (Exterior Fabric):
Main Body Panel: 1 piece, 10 inches wide x 19 inches tall (25 cm W x 48 cm H). This piece will form the front, back, and flap of your bag.
Side/Bottom Band: 1 piece, 22 inches long x 2.5 inches tall (56 cm L x 6.4 cm H). This will form the continuous side and bottom of your bag.
Strap Connectors: 2 pieces, 3 inches long x 2 inches wide (7.6 cm L x 5 cm W).
From your Lining Fabric:
Main Lining Panel: 1 piece, 10 inches wide x 15 inches tall (25 cm W x 38 cm H). (Note: The lining is shorter as it doesn't include the flap).
Side/Bottom Lining Band: 1 piece, 22 inches long x 2.5 inches tall (56 cm L x 6.4 cm H).
Interior Pocket Panel (Optional): 1 piece, 8 inches tall x 10 inches wide (20 cm T x 25 cm W).
From your Interfacing:
Cut pieces slightly smaller (e.g., 1/2 inch smaller on each side) than all corresponding denim exterior panels (Main Body Panel, Side/Bottom Band, and Strap Connectors). Also cut for the Main Lining Panel and Interior Pocket.
Fuse Interfacing: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of all the corresponding denim and lining pieces. Center the interfacing so there's a 1/2-inch border of fabric exposed on all sides for the seam allowance.
3. Prepare Webbing for Strap
Cut the webbing into one 50-inch (127 cm) piece. (This length allows for adjustability; you can trim if desired).
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III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Use your denim needle and heavy-duty thread for all denim sections. A walking foot is highly recommended. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement.
Step 1: Attach Exterior Pocket (Optional)
Take your Main Body Panel (10" x 19"). Lay it right side up.
Measure 7 inches (18 cm) up from one of the 10-inch bottom edges. This marks the top of what will be the front of your bag.
Position the jean back pocket where you'd like it on the "front" section (below the 7-inch mark). Pin securely.
Stitch the pocket onto the denim panel, very close to the existing stitched edges of the pocket. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack stitch for extra durability.
Step 2: Prepare Strap Connectors
Take one Denim Strap Connector (3" x 2"). Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so it measures 1.5" x 2". Press.
Open it up. Fold each long raw edge into the center crease you just made. Press again.
Fold the entire strip in half lengthwise once more, enclosing all raw edges. Press firmly. You should now have a strip that is about 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) wide.
Stitch along both long edges of this strip, close to the folded edges, to secure them.
Thread one end of a D-ring onto this strip. Fold the strip in half around the D-ring, aligning the raw ends. Stitch the raw ends together securely, about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) from the D-ring. This creates a small D-ring tab.
Repeat for the second Denim Strap Connector and D-ring.
Step 3: Attach Strap Connectors to Main Body Panel
On your Main Body Panel (10" x 19"), identify the "back" section (the 7-inch section above the exterior pocket, or if no pocket, one of the ends of the 19-inch panel).
Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) down from the top raw corners of this "back" section (along the 10-inch top edge).
Place one of the prepared D-ring tabs onto one of these marks, aligning the raw end of the tab with the raw side edge of the main panel. The D-ring should point inwards, towards the center of the panel. Pin securely.
Stitch the tab in place within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, using a small square or bar tack stitch for reinforcement.
Repeat for the second D-ring tab on the other side of the "back" section.
Step 4: Install Magnetic Snap/Closure on Flap & Bag Front
On the Flap (Denim): Identify the "flap" section of your Main Body Panel (the remaining 5-inch section at the top, above the D-rings, when the bag is folded). Measure 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) up from the raw edge of this 5-inch section, centered. Mark this spot for one half of your magnetic snap (usually the male part). Follow the magnetic snap instructions to install it.
On the Bag Front (Denim): Identify the "front" section of your Main Body Panel (where the exterior pocket is, or the opposite end from the flap). Measure 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) down from the raw edge of this 7-inch section, centered. Mark this spot for the other half of your magnetic snap. Install it.
If using Velcro: Stitch one side of the Velcro strip to the flap (on the wrong side), and the other side to the bag front (on the right side).
If using a button: Stitch the button to the bag front. You'll create a buttonhole on the flap later.
Step 5: Assemble the Exterior Bag Body
Fold the Main Body Panel in half right sides together, so the "front" section aligns with the "back" section, and the flap extends beyond. The fold is where the bottom of your bag will be.
Align the 19-inch raw side edges. Stitch these two side seams, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Press seams open.
Take your Side/Bottom Band (22" x 2.5").
Stitch the short ends of the Side/Bottom Band together (right sides facing) to form a loop. Press seam open.
Align the Side/Bottom Band (right sides together) with the bottom edge of the Main Body Panel loop you just created. Pin carefully around the entire perimeter. You'll need to clip into the seam allowance of the band at the corners to help it curve smoothly around the bag's body.
Stitch all the way around this connection, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Go slowly around the corners. This forms the complete exterior shell of your bag, with the flap still extending.
Finish Raw Edges (Recommended): Use a zigzag stitch or serger along all raw seam allowances to prevent fraying and add durability.
Step 6: Prepare the Interior Pocket (Optional)
Take your Interior Pocket Panel (8" x 10"). Fold it in half (wrong sides together) to measure 4" x 10". Press.
Hem the top raw edge (what will be the top of the pocket) by folding 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) down towards the wrong side, pressing, then folding another 1/2 inch and pressing. Stitch this hem in place, close to the inner fold.
Place this pocket onto one of your Main Lining Panels, centering it horizontally about 2 inches (5 cm) down from what will be the top edge of the lining. Pin in place.
Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, very close to the edge. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack for durability. You can add vertical stitching to create compartments if desired.
Step 7: Assemble the Lining Bag
Fold the Main Lining Panel (10" x 15") in half right sides together so it measures 10 inches wide x 7.5 inches tall. Stitch the two 7.5-inch side seams, leaving a 4-5 inch (10-12.7 cm) opening along the center of one of these side seams. This opening is crucial for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of this gap.
Take your Lining Side/Bottom Band (22" x 2.5"). Stitch its short ends together (right sides facing) to form a loop. Press seam open.
Attach the Main Lining Panel to the Lining Side/Bottom Band using the same method as in Step 5 for the exterior bag. Be sure the opening you left in the side seam of the lining body is accessible.
Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.
Step 8: Combine Exterior and Lining
Keep the exterior denim bag turned right side out.
Keep the lining bag turned inside out.
Carefully insert the exterior denim bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.
Align the top raw edges of the denim bag's main opening (not the flap) with the top raw edges of the lining bag. Make sure all seams match up (side seams of exterior to side seams of lining). All D-ring tabs should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers. The flap of the denim bag will extend outwards, not tucked in.
Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the bag.
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Step 9: Sew Top Edge and Finish
Stitch all the way around the top opening of the bag, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Clip curves/trim bulk: Clip into the seam allowance around any curves (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially near the D-ring tabs.
Step 10: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Close Opening
Reach into the opening you left in the side seam of the lining (from Step 7).
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, strap tabs – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze due to the denim and interfacing, so be patient and gentle.
Gently push out all the corners and seams with a point turner or a blunt object (like a chopstick) to make them crisp and well-defined.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the side seam of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside.
Give your finished bag a good final press, paying special attention to the flap and top edge.
Step 11: Assemble the Adjustable Shoulder Strap
Take your 50-inch webbing piece.
Thread one end of the webbing through the center bar of your slider/adjuster buckle, going over the top and then under. Pull about 2 inches (5 cm) through.
Fold this end back on itself by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the first end to the adjuster.
Take the other end of the webbing. Thread it through one of the D-rings on your bag.
Now, thread this same end of the webbing through the slider/adjuster buckle, going under the top bar and over the bottom bar (the one you just secured). This creates the adjustable loop.
Finally, thread the webbing through the second D-ring on your bag.
Fold the end of the webbing back by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the second end of the strap to the other D-ring.
Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a durable and unique DIY Simple No-Zipper Denim Crossbody Bag from Old Jeans! This stylish and practical bag is perfect for everyday wear and a fantastic example of upcycling.
What unique details from your old jeans (like distressed patches or original seams) did you manage to incorporate into your crossbody bag?
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