Crafting an open-wide tote bag from old jeans is a fantastic way to create a super functional and stylish accessory! The "open-wide" design means the top opening is wider than the base, making it incredibly easy to see and access everything inside. This style is perfect for carrying groceries, craft supplies, beach essentials, or anything else you need to grab quickly. Denim's inherent durability makes it an ideal choice for a hard-working bag, and using old jeans gives it a unique, eco-friendly touch.
This detailed tutorial will guide you through sewing an open-wide denim tote bag with a flat, structured bottom and comfortable handles. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 16 inches (40 cm) wide at the top, 12 inches (30 cm) wide at the bottom, 12 inches (30 cm) tall, and 6 inches (15 cm) deep.
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How to Sew an Open-Wide Denim Tote Bag from Old Jeans
This project is suitable for intermediate sewers. While it doesn't involve zippers, the "open-wide" construction and working with thicker denim layers require precision and attention to detail.
I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials
Careful planning and the right materials will make all the difference in achieving a professional-looking and durable bag.
Old Jeans:
Quantity: 1-2 pairs of adult-sized jeans. Look for straight-leg or bootcut jeans; they offer larger, flatter pieces of denim. Sturdy, non-stretch or low-stretch denim works best.
Preparation: Wash and thoroughly dry your jeans before cutting to prevent future shrinkage. Deconstruct them by unpicking seams (inseams, outer seams) to get the largest possible flat pieces. Press them impeccably flat.
Lining Fabric:
Type: A durable woven cotton, such as quilting cotton, broadcloth, or a sturdy old bedsheet. A fun print or contrasting color can add a nice touch.
Quantity: Approximately 1 yard (0.9 meters).
Preparation: Wash and iron.
Interfacing/Stabilizer (Highly Recommended for Structure):
Type: You'll need two types for best results:
Medium-weight fusible interfacing: (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex) for the lining panels, and optionally the upper parts of the denim.
Heavy-weight fusible stabilizer: (e.g., Pellon 809 Decor Bond or Pellon Decovil Light) for the main denim body and bottom to give the bag a firm, structured shape.
Quantity: Approximately 1 yard (0.9 meters) of each type.
Webbing for Handles:
Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.
Quantity: Approximately 1.5 yards (1.4 meters) total (two 26-inch / 66 cm pieces).
Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A stronger, heavy-duty thread (like upholstery thread or topstitching thread) is highly recommended for all seams, especially where multiple layers of denim overlap, and for visible topstitching.
Optional Hardware:
4 Bag Feet: To protect the bottom of your bag and add a polished look.
Basic Sewing Tools:
Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 16 or 18, is essential).
Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine, preventing shifting and puckering.
Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.
Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.
Fabric Chalk, Frixion Pen, or Mark-B-Gone Pen.
Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL for thick denim layers).
Iron and Ironing Board (with a pressing cloth).
Seam Ripper (your ever-present friend!).
Awl: Useful for piercing holes for bag feet or other hardware.
II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces
Accuracy in cutting is paramount for a well-shaped bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.
1. Cut Main Bag Panels (Denim & Lining)
From your Denim (Exterior Fabric):
Main Exterior Body Panels: 2 pieces, 17 inches wide x 13 inches tall (43 cm W x 33 cm H). (These will be your front and back).
Side Panels: 2 pieces, 12.5 inches tall x 7 inches wide (31.75 cm T x 17.8 cm W).
Bottom Panel: 1 piece, 13 inches long x 7 inches wide (33 cm L x 17.8 cm W).
Optional Exterior Pocket(s): Cut a rectangle from denim for a front pocket (e.g., 10" x 8" for a simple patch pocket), or use a harvested jean back pocket.
From your Lining Fabric:
Main Lining Panels: 2 pieces, 17 inches wide x 13 inches tall (43 cm W x 33 cm H).
Side Lining Panels: 2 pieces, 12.5 inches tall x 7 inches wide (31.75 cm T x 17.8 cm W).
Bottom Lining Panel: 1 piece, 13 inches long x 7 inches wide (33 cm L x 17.8 cm W).
Interior Pocket Panel (Optional): 1 piece, 10 inches tall x 12 inches wide (25 cm T x 30 cm W).
From your Interfacing/Stabilizer:
Heavy-weight Fusible Stabilizer:
2 pieces, 16 inches wide x 12 inches tall (for Main Exterior Body Panels).
2 pieces, 11.5 inches tall x 6 inches wide (for Side Panels).
1 piece, 12 inches long x 6 inches wide (for Bottom Panel).
Medium-weight Fusible Interfacing:
Cut pieces slightly smaller (e.g., 1/2 inch smaller on each side) than all corresponding lining panels (Main Lining Panels, Side Lining Panels, Bottom Lining Panel, and Interior Pocket).
Fuse Interfacing/Stabilizer: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the heavy-weight stabilizer to the wrong side of your denim exterior panels and bottom panel. Fuse the medium-weight interfacing to the wrong side of all lining panels and the optional interior pocket. Center the interfacing/stabilizer, leaving about a 1/2-inch fabric border exposed on all sides for the seam allowance. This adds stiffness and body.
2. Prepare Handles
Webbing Handles: Cut two pieces of webbing, each 26 inches (66 cm) long.
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III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Remember to press your seams after each step for a professional finish. Use your denim needle and a walking foot (if you have one) when sewing through thick layers. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement, especially on handles.
Step 1: Add Exterior Pockets (Optional)
If adding a patch pocket: Hem the top edge of your Exterior Pocket Panel (fold 1/2" twice, stitch with heavy-duty thread).
Center the pocket on the bottom half of one Main Exterior Body Panel. Pin in place.
Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, very close to the edge. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack stitch for durability.
Step 2: Attach Handles to Exterior Panels
Take one Main Exterior Body Panel (with pocket if added) and lay it right side up.
Measure 4 inches (10 cm) in from each of the 17-inch (width) side edges, along the top raw edge of the panel. Mark these points.
Place the raw ends of one webbing handle onto these marks, aligning the raw edges of the webbing with the raw top edge of the bag panel. The handle loop should face downwards onto the bag panel.
Pin securely. Stitch the handles in place with a strong reinforcing stitch (e.g., stitch a square with an "X" inside it), within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. This is crucial for handle strength.
Repeat for the second handle on the second Main Exterior Body Panel.
Step 3: Assemble the Exterior Bag Body
Attach Side Panels to Main Body: Take one Main Exterior Body Panel (with handles). Lay it right side up. Place one Side Panel right sides together with one of the 13-inch sides of the Main Body Panel. Align the raw edges. Pin and stitch, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the other side panel on the opposite side of the same Main Body Panel. Press seams open.
Now, attach the second Main Exterior Body Panel to the remaining raw edges of the Side Panels, forming a loop. Stitch both seams. Press seams open.
Attach Bottom Panel: Take your Bottom Panel (13" x 7"). Align it right sides together with the bottom opening of the assembled exterior bag body. Match centers and corners precisely. Pin liberally all the way around, easing the fabric as you go.
Stitch all the way around the bottom, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Go slowly and carefully around the corners. This step defines the "open-wide" shape.
Trim excess seam allowance if bulky, and finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or serger. Press seams open. This forms the complete exterior shell of your bag.
Step 4: Add Bag Feet (Optional)
Turn your exterior bag shell inside out.
Decide placement for your bag feet on the bottom panel (e.g., 1.5 inches in from each corner). Mark.
Following the bag feet instructions (usually involves piercing through all layers of denim and stabilizer), attach the feet securely. This should be done before adding the lining.
Step 5: Prepare the Interior Pocket (Optional)
If adding an interior pocket, take your Interior Pocket Panel (10" x 12") (with interfacing fused).
Fold it in half (wrong sides together) to measure 5" x 12". Press.
Hem the top raw edge (what will be the top of the pocket) by folding 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) down towards the wrong side, pressing, then folding another 1/2 inch and pressing. Stitch this hem in place, close to the inner fold.
Place this pocket onto one of your Main Lining Panels, centering it horizontally about 4 inches (10 cm) down from what will be the top edge of the lining. Pin in place.
Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, very close to the edge. Reinforce the top corners for durability. You can add vertical stitching to create compartments if desired.
Step 6: Assemble the Lining Bag
Follow the same steps as for the exterior bag (Step 3) to assemble the Main Lining Panels, Side Lining Panels, and Bottom Lining Panel.
Crucial: Leave a 5-6 inch (12.7-15 cm) opening in the center of the bottom seam of your Bottom Lining Panel. This opening is essential for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of this opening.
Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.
Step 7: Combine Exterior and Lining
Keep the exterior denim bag turned right side out.
Keep the lining bag turned inside out.
Carefully insert the exterior denim bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.
Align the top raw edges of the denim bag's opening with the top raw edges of the lining bag. Make sure all side seams match up. All handles should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers.
Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the bag.
Step 8: Sew Top Edge and Finish
Stitch all the way around the top opening of the bag, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Clip curves/trim bulk: Clip into the seam allowance around any corners (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially where handles are attached.
Topstitch (Recommended for a professional finish): Turn the bag right side out (through the lining opening, see next step). Push out all corners and seams. On the exterior of the bag, topstitch around the entire top opening, about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) from the edge, using your heavy-duty/topstitching thread and a longer stitch length. This gives it a polished, professional finish and helps the top opening maintain its shape.
Step 9: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Close Opening
Reach into the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining (from Step 6).
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze due to the denim and interfacing, so be patient and gentle.
Gently push out all the corners and seams with a point turner or a blunt object (like a chopstick) to make them crisp and well-defined.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside.
Give your finished bag a good final press to remove any wrinkles and make it look crisp.
Congratulations! You've successfully sewn a durable and highly functional DIY Open-Wide Denim Tote Bag from Old Jeans! This unique and practical bag is perfect for all your hauling needs, demonstrating your impressive upcycling skills.
What kind of unique denim details from your old jeans did you manage to showcase on the exterior of your new open-wide tote?
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