Transforming old jeans into a stylish and practical shoulder bag is a fantastic way to give new life to denim you no longer wear. Denim's durability makes it perfect for a bag that will see a lot of use, and the unique washes and existing details (like pockets or seams) of old jeans can add character to your finished project.
This detailed tutorial will guide you through creating a versatile denim shoulder bag with a zippered main compartment, an exterior slip pocket (using a jean's back pocket!), and an adjustable strap. We'll aim for a finished size of approximately 10 inches (25 cm) wide, 8 inches (20 cm) tall, and 2 inches (5 cm) deep, a great size for everyday essentials.
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How to Sew a Denim Shoulder Bag from Old Jeans
This project is suitable for intermediate sewers, as it involves zipper installation and working with thicker fabrics. However, the step-by-step instructions will help you navigate each part.
I. Planning & Gathering Your Materials
Careful preparation is key for a smooth sewing process and a durable, well-finished bag.
Old Jeans:
Quantity: 1 pair of adult-sized jeans (or even two if you want to mix washes or ensure you have enough continuous fabric). Look for sturdy, non-stretch or low-stretch denim. Avoid very thin or heavily distressed/ripped areas, unless you plan to heavily reinforce them.
Preparation: Wash and thoroughly dry your jeans before cutting. This prevents shrinkage later and makes them easier to work with.
Lining Fabric:
Type: A durable woven cotton, such as quilting cotton, broadcloth, or an old cotton sheet. A contrasting color or fun print can add a nice touch.
Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).
Preparation: Wash and iron.
Interfacing (Highly Recommended for Structure):
Type: Medium-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex). This will give your denim and lining more stability and help the bag hold its shape.
Quantity: Approximately 1/2 yard (0.45 meters).
Zipper:
Type: A sturdy nylon coil zipper (easier to sew than metal).
Length: At least 12 inches (30 cm) for the main bag opening. Longer is fine; you'll trim it.
Webbing for Adjustable Strap:
Type: Cotton or polypropylene webbing, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.
Quantity: Approximately 1.5 yards (1.4 meters).
Hardware for Adjustable Strap:
2 D-rings: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).
1 Slider/Adjuster Buckle: 1 inch (2.5 cm) size (to match webbing width).
Matching Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. A stronger, heavy-duty thread (like topstitching thread or upholstery thread) is highly recommended for sewing through multiple layers of denim and for topstitching.
Basic Sewing Tools:
Sewing machine (a denim needle or heavy-duty needle, size 14 or 16, is essential for sewing through thick denim).
Zipper foot: Crucial for sewing close to zipper teeth.
Walking foot (optional but highly recommended): This attachment helps feed multiple thick layers of fabric evenly through your machine.
Sharp Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat.
Measuring Tape or Long Ruler.
Fabric Chalk, Frixion Pen, or Mark-B-Gone Pen.
Plenty of Pins or Fabric Clips (clips are invaluable for holding thick denim!).
Iron and Ironing Board.
Seam Ripper (your best friend!).
II. Prepare & Cut Your Fabric Pieces
Accuracy in cutting is crucial for a well-shaped bag. We'll use a consistent 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise specified.
1. Deconstruct Your Jeans
Lay your washed and ironed jeans flat.
Cut off the legs just below the crotch seam.
Carefully unpick (seam rip) the inseam (the inner leg seam) and the outer leg seam of both legs. This will give you large, flat pieces of denim. Press them flat.
Harvest a Back Pocket: Carefully cut off one back pocket, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance around its stitched edges. This will be your exterior slip pocket.
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2. Cut Main Bag Panels (Denim & Lining)
From your Denim (Exterior Fabric):
Main Exterior Body Panels: 2 pieces, 11 inches wide x 9 inches tall (28 cm W x 23 cm H). (Front and Back of the bag).
Side/Bottom Band: 1 piece, 25 inches long x 3 inches tall (63.5 cm L x 7.6 cm H). This piece will form the continuous side and bottom of your bag.
Strap Connectors: 2 pieces, 3 inches long x 2 inches wide (7.6 cm L x 5 cm W).
From your Lining Fabric:
Main Lining Panels: 2 pieces, 11 inches wide x 9 inches tall (28 cm W x 23 cm H).
Side/Bottom Lining Band: 1 piece, 25 inches long x 3 inches tall (63.5 cm L x 7.6 cm H).
From your Interfacing:
Cut pieces slightly smaller (e.g., 1/2 inch smaller on each side) than all corresponding denim exterior panels (Main Exterior Body Panels, Side/Bottom Band, and Strap Connectors).
Fuse Interfacing: Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of all the corresponding denim pieces. Center the interfacing so there's a 1/2-inch border of fabric exposed on all sides for the seam allowance.
3. Prepare Webbing for Strap
Cut the webbing into one 50-inch (127 cm) piece. (This length allows for adjustability; you can trim if desired).
III. Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Use your denim needle and heavy-duty thread for all denim sections. A walking foot is highly recommended. Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam for reinforcement.
Step 1: Attach Exterior Pocket
Take one of your Main Exterior Body Panels (11" x 9"). Lay it right side up.
Position the jean back pocket where you'd like it (e.g., centered on the lower half of the panel). Pin securely in place (clips work well for this).
Stitch the pocket onto the denim panel, very close to the existing stitched edges of the pocket. Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle or bar tack stitch for extra durability, as pockets are high-use areas.
Step 2: Prepare Strap Connectors
Take one Denim Strap Connector (3" x 2"). Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so it measures 1.5" x 2". Press.
Open it up. Fold each long raw edge into the center crease you just made. Press again.
Fold the entire strip in half lengthwise once more, enclosing all raw edges. Press firmly. You should now have a strip that is about 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) wide.
Stitch along both long edges of this strip, close to the folded edges, to secure them.
Thread one end of a D-ring onto this strip. Fold the strip in half around the D-ring, aligning the raw ends. Stitch the raw ends together securely, about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) from the D-ring. This creates a small D-ring tab.
Repeat for the second Denim Strap Connector and D-ring.
Step 3: Attach Strap Connectors to Main Exterior Panels
Take one Main Exterior Body Panel (with pocket if added). Lay it right side up.
Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) down from each of the top corners (along the 11-inch edge). These are your attachment points.
Place one of the prepared D-ring tabs onto one of these marks, aligning the raw end of the tab with the raw side edge of the main panel. The D-ring should point inwards, towards the center of the panel. Pin securely.
Stitch the tab in place within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, using a small square or bar tack stitch for reinforcement.
Repeat for the second D-ring tab on the other side of the same main panel.
Repeat this entire step for the second Main Exterior Body Panel (without a pocket).
Step 4: Install the Main Zipper
Lay one Main Exterior Body Panel (with D-ring tabs) right side up.
Place the zipper right side down along the top 11-inch raw edge of the panel, aligning the zipper tape's raw edge with the fabric's raw edge. Center the zipper horizontally. The zipper pull should be facing inwards (towards the bag). Pin in place.
Take one Main Lining Panel (11" x 9"). Place it right side down on top of the zipper/exterior fabric sandwich, aligning all three raw edges (exterior fabric, zipper, lining fabric).
Pin all three layers together.
Using your zipper foot, stitch along this pinned edge, as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Open out the fabric so the exterior and lining are wrong sides together, with the zipper visible between them. Press well.
Topstitch: On the right side of the exterior fabric, topstitch close to the seam line, just above the zipper. This secures the fabric away from the zipper teeth and gives a neat finish.
Repeat this process for the other side of the zipper, attaching it to the remaining raw edges of the second Main Exterior Body Panel and the second Main Lining Panel.
Lay out the partially assembled bag. Bring the remaining raw edge of the second exterior panel to the other side of the zipper. Place the remaining raw edge of the second lining panel to the other side of the zipper. Pin, stitch, open, press, and topstitch.
You should now have a complete "tube" with the zipper running down the center. Crucially, open the zipper halfway at this point! This is essential for turning the bag right side out later.
Step 5: Assemble the Exterior Bag Body
Take your Denim Side/Bottom Band (25" x 3").
Place one Main Exterior Body Panel (the one with the exterior pocket if you added one, or simply the front) right sides together with the Side/Bottom Band. Align the bottom corner of the exterior panel with one end of the band.
Pin the exterior panel to the band, working your way around the bottom and sides. You'll need to clip into the seam allowance of the band slightly at the corners of the main panel to help it curve smoothly.
Stitch all the way around this connection, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Go slowly around the corners.
Repeat for the second Main Exterior Body Panel on the other side of the band.
Once both panels are attached, bring the two short ends of the Side/Bottom Band together (right sides facing) to form a complete loop, enclosing the main panels. Stitch this seam. Press all seams open. This forms the complete exterior shell of your bag.
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Step 6: Assemble the Lining Bag
Take your Lining Side/Bottom Band (25" x 3"). Stitch its short ends together (right sides facing) to form a loop. Press seam open.
Follow the same steps as in Step 5 to attach the two Main Lining Panels to the Side/Bottom Lining Band.
Crucial: Leave a 4-5 inch (10-12.7 cm) opening in the center of the bottom seam of your Side/Bottom Lining Band. This opening is essential for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of your stitching around this gap.
Do NOT turn the lining bag right side out. Keep it inside out.
Step 7: Combine Exterior and Lining
Keep the exterior denim bag turned right side out.
Keep the lining bag turned inside out.
Carefully insert the exterior denim bag into the lining bag, so that the right sides of both bags are facing each other.
Align the top raw edge of the denim bag's opening (where the zipper is sewn to the denim) with the top raw edge of the lining bag's opening (where the zipper is sewn to the lining). Make sure all seams match up (side seams of exterior to side seams of lining). All D-ring tabs and the strap should be tucked down between the exterior and lining layers.
Pin securely all around the top raw edge of the bag.
Step 8: Final Top Seam
Stitch all the way around the top opening of the bag, using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end. You'll be sewing through the zipper tape, exterior denim, and lining fabric.
Clip curves/trim bulk: Clip into the seam allowance around any curves (without cutting stitches) to help the seam lie flat when turned. Trim any excess bulk from the seam allowance, especially near the zipper ends and strap tabs.
Step 9: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Close Opening
Reach into the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining (from Step 6).
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, lining, strap tabs – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. This can be a tight squeeze due to the denim and interfacing, so be patient and gentle.
Gently push out all the corners and seams with a point turner or a blunt object (like a chopstick) to make them crisp and well-defined.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin or clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Finally, push the lining down into the main bag, ensuring it sits smoothly inside.
Give your finished bag a good final press, paying special attention to the zipper area to make it lie flat and neat.
Step 10: Assemble the Adjustable Shoulder Strap
Take your 50-inch webbing piece.
Thread one end of the webbing through the center bar of your slider/adjuster buckle, going over the top and then under. Pull about 2 inches (5 cm) through.
Fold this end back on itself by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the first end to the adjuster.
Take the other end of the webbing. Thread it through one of the D-rings on your bag.
Now, thread this same end of the webbing through the slider/adjuster buckle, going under the top bar and over the bottom bar (the one you just secured). This creates the adjustable loop.
Finally, thread the webbing through the second D-ring on your bag.
Fold the end of the webbing back by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and stitch it securely to itself. This secures the second end of the strap to the other D-ring.
You've successfully sewn a durable and unique DIY Denim Shoulder Bag from Old Jeans! It's ready to carry your essentials, perfectly suited to your style, and a fantastic example of upcycling.
Do you have any ideas for decorating your new denim bag, like adding patches or embroidery?
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