You're looking to combine the best of both worlds: the roomy practicality of a tote bag with the hands-free convenience of a crossbody strap, all while upcycling old jeans! This is a fantastic project that results in a unique, durable, and super functional bag. Denim's inherent strength and character make it ideal for this kind of versatile bag.
We'll create a structured crossbody tote bag with a flat bottom, a clean lining, an exterior slip pocket (perfect for quick access items), and an adjustable crossbody strap.
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How to Sew a Crossbody Tote Bag from Old Jeans
This detailed guide will walk you through transforming your old jeans into a stylish and robust crossbody tote. Working with denim requires patience and the right tools, but the end result is a bag you'll love and use often.
I. Planning Your Crossbody Tote Bag
Careful planning ensures your bag meets your functional and aesthetic needs.
Size: A good, versatile size for a crossbody tote might be around 14 inches wide x 12 inches tall x 4 inches deep (35.6 cm x 30.5 cm x 10.2 cm). This offers ample space without being cumbersome.
Denim Quantity: For a bag of this size, you'll likely need 1-2 pairs of old jeans (adult sizes, especially if you plan to incorporate larger panels or pockets). Non-stretch or low-stretch denim is highly recommended for better structure and easier sewing.
Design Elements: This is where you make your bag unique!
Back Pockets: Incorporating an original back pocket on the exterior is a classic denim bag feature and provides handy slip storage.
Fades/Distressing: Don't shy away from featuring worn areas; they add authentic character and a personalized touch.
Original Hems/Seams: Sometimes existing hems or double-stitched seams can be integrated as decorative elements on your bag's exterior.
Patchwork: If individual jean pieces aren't large enough for your panels, you'll piece them together, creating a cool patchwork effect.
Strap Style: We'll make an adjustable crossbody strap, but you could also add short shoulder straps in addition to the crossbody for more carrying options.
II. Gather Your Materials
Having all your supplies ready before you start will make the sewing process smoother.
Old Jeans: 1-2 pairs of clean, ironed, non-stretch or low-stretch denim jeans.
Lining Fabric: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of medium-weight cotton, canvas, or poly-cotton. Choose a durable fabric with a color or print that complements your denim.
Heavy-Duty Fusible Interfacing (ESSENTIAL for Structure!): 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of heavyweight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon 809 Decor Bond, Pellon 71F Peltex II Ultra Firm). This is absolutely crucial for making your tote stand up, hold its shape, and have a professional finish. Do not substitute with lighter interfacing.
Hardware for Adjustable Strap:
2 D-rings or Rectangle Rings: 1-inch (2.5 cm) internal width.
1 Slider Buckle: 1-inch (2.5 cm) internal width.
Matching Thread: Strong, all-purpose polyester thread. Consider a color that matches your denim, or a contrasting color (like gold or orange) for a classic jean topstitch look.
Basic Sewing Supplies:
Sewing Machine: It must be able to handle thick layers. A denim needle (size 90/14 or 100/16) is essential (have spares!). A walking foot is highly recommended for feeding thick denim layers evenly.
Sharp Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter with a large mat (for efficient cutting).
Long Quilting Ruler or Measuring Tape.
Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen.
Plenty of Wonder Clips (these hold thick layers better than pins).
Iron and Ironing Board (crucial for fusing interfacing and pressing seams).
Seam Ripper (your most valuable tool for repurposing jeans!).
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III. Plan Your Cuts & Prepare Your Denim Panels
This stage requires careful cutting and likely piecing your denim, as single jean pieces aren't usually large enough for a tote.
A. Determine Your Bag Dimensions (Example): We'll use our example: 14 inches wide x 12 inches tall x 4 inches deep. We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.
B. Calculate Panel Sizes:
Main Body Panel Width: Finished Width + Finished Depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 14" + 4" + 1" = 19 inches
Main Body Panel Height: Finished Height + Finished Depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 12" + 4" + 1" = 17 inches
C. Disassemble Your Jeans:
Wash and Dry: Ensure all jeans are clean and any shrinkage has occurred.
Cut Off Legs: Cut off the legs of your jeans just below the crotch seam.
Open Leg Seams: Use your seam ripper to carefully open up both the inseam (inner leg seam) and the outseam (outer leg seam) of each leg. This will give you large, flat panels of denim. Press these pieces flat with a hot iron.
Harvest Back Pocket (Optional): If you want to use an original back pocket (for an exterior pocket), carefully cut it out, leaving about 1/2 to 1 inch of denim margin all around its perimeter (below the top opening).
D. Create Large Denim Panels (Piecing is Common):
For a tote bag of this size, individual jean pieces are often not wide enough for a single panel. You'll need to piece them together.
Plan Your Layout: Lay out your opened denim pieces. Consider the different washes and how they'll look together. Try to make your panel cuts from areas with minimal existing seams for a cleaner look, but don't shy away from incorporating existing seams for character.
Piecing Technique:
Place two denim pieces right sides together, aligning a long raw edge.
Stitch them together using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance.
Press the seam open thoroughly to reduce bulk.
Topstitch (Highly Recommended): On the right side of the fabric, sew two lines of stitching, one on each side of the seam line, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) away. This mimics the look of jean seams, adds strength, and creates a great visual effect.
Continue piecing until you have denim panels large enough for your final cuts.
E. Cut Your Fabric Pieces:
Exterior Denim Panels: Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 17 inches high (48.3 cm x 43.2 cm).
Lining Fabric Panels: Cut 2 rectangles, each 19 inches wide x 17 inches high.
Heavy-Duty Fusible Interfacing: Cut 2 rectangles, each 18 inches wide x 16 inches high (1 inch smaller on all sides than your main panels to keep bulk out of the seams).
Denim for Strap: Cut 1 rectangle, 3 inches wide x 55-60 inches long (7.6 cm x 140-152 cm). You will almost certainly need to piece denim for this length.
Small Tabs for D-Rings (from scrap denim): Cut 2 rectangles, each 2 inches wide x 3 inches long (5 cm x 7.6 cm).
IV. Let's Start Sewing Your Crossbody Tote!
General Tips for Sewing Thick Denim:
Denim Needle: Crucial! Always use a fresh, sharp denim needle (90/14 or 100/16).
Walking Foot: If you have one, use it! It dramatically helps feed thick layers evenly and prevents skipped stitches.
Go Slow: Stitch slowly, especially over bulky seams. You may need to hand-crank your machine over particularly thick areas.
Wonder Clips: Use these generously instead of pins; they hold thick fabric better and don't leave holes.
Pressing: Pressing seams open is crucial to reduce bulk. Use a good, hot iron.
Topstitching: Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0-3.5mm) for all topstitching for a more professional and authentic jean look.
Step 1: Prepare Exterior Panels (Fuse Interfacing & Add Exterior Pocket)
Fuse Interfacing: Take both Exterior Denim Panels. Lay each one wrong side up on your ironing board. Center and fuse the corresponding interfacing piece to each, following the manufacturer's instructions. Press firmly and allow to cool completely. This is what gives your bag its professional structure.
Attach Exterior Pocket (Optional): Take one Exterior Denim Panel (this will be the front of your bag).
Position the harvested back pocket on the right side of this panel. A good placement is centered horizontally, about 3-4 inches (7.6-10.2 cm) up from what will be the bottom edge.
Topstitch the pocket securely in place along its two sides and bottom edge. Do not stitch the top opening of the pocket. Backstitch well at the start and end of your stitching lines for durability.
Step 2: Construct the Main Bag Body (Exterior)
We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance for all seams.
Place the two Exterior Denim Panels right sides together, carefully aligning all raw edges. The attached pocket should be sandwiched neatly inside.
Clip securely along both side edges and the entire bottom edge. Leave the top edge open.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch from one top corner down that side, pivot sharply at the bottom corner, stitch straight across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
Press your seams open thoroughly to reduce bulk.
Step 3: Box the Corners of the Main Bag
This creates the flat, structured bottom of your crossbody tote.
Lay the main bag body flat. The side and bottom seams should be pressed open.
At one of the bottom corners, carefully bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.
Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 4-inch deep bag, you'll measure 2 inches / 5 cm).
Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point. This is your new stitching line.
Clip firmly along this drawn line.
Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.
Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.
Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of your main bag body.
Result: Your main bag now has a defined, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out.
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Step 4: Sew the Lining Bag Body
The lining is constructed almost identically to the main bag, but with a crucial opening for turning.
Place the two Lining Fabric Panels right sides together, aligning all raw edges.
Clip along both side edges and the entire bottom edge.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side seam.
CRUCIAL STEP: For the bottom seam, you must leave an opening! Stitch approximately 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one side, then leave a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) unstitched gap in the middle of the bottom seam. This opening is absolutely essential for turning the entire bag right side out later. After the gap, stitch for another 3 inches (7.6 cm) to reach the other side seam. Backstitch well at the start and end of the stitched sections around your opening.
Stitch up the second side seam.
Press your seams open.
Box the Corners of the Lining Bag: Box the corners of your lining bag using the exact same method you used for the main bag (refer back to Step 3).
Result: Your lining bag is now fully constructed, with that important turning opening. Keep it wrong side out.
Step 5: Prepare and Attach the D-Ring Tabs
These tabs will hold your crossbody strap.
Take one of your small denim tab pieces (2" x 3").
Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Open it up.
Fold each long raw edge in towards the center crease, and press again.
Fold the strip in half again along the original center crease. You now have a strip roughly 1/2 inch wide with no raw edges. Topstitch down both long sides, 1/8 inch from the edge.
Thread one D-ring onto this tab, bringing the raw ends of the tab together to form a loop with the D-ring at the top.
Take your exterior denim bag (still wrong side out). Find one of the top side corners (where the side seam meets the top raw edge).
Align the raw ends of the D-ring tab with the top raw edge of the bag, so the D-ring is pointing down into the bag. Stitch these raw ends in place within the 1/2-inch seam allowance. Reinforce heavily with backstitching.
Repeat for the second D-ring tab on the opposite top corner of the bag.
Step 6: Join the Exterior Bag and the Lining Bag (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)
This clever technique encloses all raw edges at the top for a super clean and professional finish.
Ensure your exterior denim bag is right side out.
Ensure your lining bag is wrong side out (and still has that turning opening).
Carefully insert the exterior denim bag into the lining bag.
The right sides of both bags should now be facing each other.
Align the side seams of the exterior bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
Align the top raw edges of the exterior denim and the lining fabric all around the entire opening of the bag. The D-ring tabs should be sandwiched between the layers, with the D-rings pointing down into the bag.
Clip very securely all the way around this top edge, matching up seams precisely.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially when you go over the D-ring tab areas. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
Trim Bulk: Carefully trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk inside the top edge.
Step 7: Turn Your Bag Right Side Out & Finish
This is the satisfying moment your crossbody tote takes its final shape!
Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (denim exterior, lining, D-ring tabs – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. Take your time, gently pushing out all the corners for a crisp, well-defined shape.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and clip them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Now, push the lining down into the denim bag.
Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag. Make sure the lining is fully tucked inside and isn't peeking out over the top edge of the denim.
For a super polished and durable finish, topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the edge. This final topstitching marries the lining to the exterior, helps the bag hold its shape, and creates a crisp, professional look. You can also sew a second row of topstitching about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) from the top edge for added detail and stability.
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Step 8: Make and Attach the Adjustable Crossbody Strap
Prepare the Strap:
Take your denim strap piece (3" wide x 55-60" long).
Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Open it up.
Fold each long raw edge in towards the center crease you just made, and press again.
Fold the entire strip in half again along the original center crease. You should now have a long, flat strap that is about 1.5 inches wide with no raw edges visible. Press firmly along the entire length.
Topstitch down both long sides of the prepared strap, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the edge. This secures all the folds and makes a neat, strong strap.
Assemble Adjustable Strap Hardware: This can be a bit tricky the first time; follow carefully!
End 1 (Fixed End): Thread one end of your strap through one of the D-rings. Fold the raw end of the strap over the D-ring by about 1 inch, then fold it under the D-ring again by another 1 inch. Stitch securely in place with a square or X-box stitch.
End 2 (Adjustable End):
Take the slider buckle. Thread the other end of your strap up through one slot of the slider and then down through the other slot. Pull about 2-3 inches of strap through.
Now, thread this same end of the strap up through the remaining D-ring.
Finally, thread this end of the strap back through the slider buckle, going down through the first slot and up through the second slot (the opposite of how you first threaded it). This creates the adjustable loop.
Position the slider so you have about 1-2 inches of strap hanging past it. Fold this strap end under by 1/2 inch, then fold it under again by another 1/2 inch. Stitch securely in place.
Attach Strap to Bag:
Take your completed bag. You have two D-ring tabs sewn into the top corners.
Attach the fixed end of your adjustable strap (the end you just sewed to a D-ring) to one of the D-rings on the bag.
Attach the adjustable end of your strap (the end with the slider and the second D-ring) to the other D-ring on the bag.
Your crossbody tote is now complete!
V. Styling Your Denim Crossbody Tote Bag
Embrace the Character: Let the unique fades, whiskering, and original pocket details from the jeans be part of the bag's charm. This is what makes it truly unique!
Patchwork Patterns: If you pieced your denim panels, let those seams be a design feature. Combining different washes of denim can create a striking effect.
Internal Pockets: Before assembling the lining (Step 4), consider sewing simple slip pockets or a zippered pocket to your lining panels for internal organization.
Contrast Stitching: Use a bold, contrasting thread color (like gold, orange, or even red) for all your topstitching to highlight the denim's texture and mimic traditional jean construction.
Hardware Choice: Antique brass, silver, or gunmetal hardware can complement the denim beautifully.
You've now created a fantastic, sturdy, and stylish crossbody tote bag from old jeans. It's a versatile piece perfect for daily use, travel, or any time you need hands-free convenience with plenty of space!
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