Upcycling old jeans into a unique and stylish handbag is a fantastic way to create a durable, personalized accessory while being kind to the planet! The beauty of using denim is that its natural wear, fading, and existing features like pockets and seams give your bag instant character.
How to Sew a Unique and Stylish Handbag from Old Jeans
This guide will walk you through making a structured handbag, complete with a flat bottom and a clean lining, all while incorporating the best parts of your old jeans. We'll leverage the denim's inherent qualities to make your bag stylish without needing overly complex techniques.
I. Planning Your Unique Handbag
Before you cut, think about the kind of handbag you want to create. This will influence which parts of the jeans you use and how you cut them.
Size & Shape: Do you envision a compact crossbody, a versatile medium-sized shoulder bag, or a more spacious tote?
Highlighting Jean Features: Which parts of your jeans really stand out?
Back Pockets: These are perfect for adding instant storage and a signature denim look to the exterior.
Waistband: A sturdy option for a strap, a decorative top edge, or even a unique handle.
Side Seams/Hems: Keeping these intact can provide strong, pre-finished, and decorative edges.
Faded/Worn Areas: Don't shy away from these! They add authentic character and a unique, distressed style.
Handle/Strap Style: Will you use the denim itself for handles, repurposed webbing, or perhaps some chic leather straps?
II. Gather Your Materials
You probably have most of these on hand, making this a budget-friendly and sustainable project!
Old Jeans: You'll typically need 1 to 2 pairs, depending on your bag's size and design complexity.
Opt for jeans with sturdy denim. Lining Fabric: About 1/2 to 1 yard (0.5 to 0.9 meters) of lightweight cotton or poly-cotton. A vibrant print or contrasting color inside adds a delightful surprise.
Interfacing (Recommended): 1/2 to 1 yard (0.5 to 0.9 meters) of medium-weight fusible interfacing (like Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex). This is key to giving your denim bag structure and preventing it from being too floppy.
Zipper (Optional for Closure): A nylon coil zipper, at least 2 inches (5 cm) longer than your bag's top opening. If you prefer simplicity, a magnetic snap is an easier alternative.
Webbing or Leather for Strap/Handles: About 1.5 to 2 yards (1.4 to 1.8 meters) of 1-inch to 1.5-inch (2.5-3.8 cm) wide webbing, or a set of pre-made bag handles. You can also craft unique fabric handles from denim scraps.
Hardware (Optional):
2 D-rings or Rectangle Rings (if using a detachable strap).
2 Swivel Hooks (for a detachable strap).
Bag Feet (for the bottom, if you want extra protection and style).
Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. Consider a contrasting color (like gold or orange, mimicking classic jean topstitching) for a deliberate, stylish touch.
Basic Sewing Supplies:
Sewing Machine (a walking foot is incredibly helpful for thick denim!)
Heavy-duty needle (e.g., denim 90/14 or 100/16 – essential for thick layers!)
Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
Quilting Ruler
Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
Plenty of Pins or Wonder Clips (clips are excellent for thicker denim as they won't bend)
Iron and Ironing Board
Zipper Foot (if using a zipper)
Seam Ripper (your absolute best friend when working with denim!)
III. Prepare Your Denim & Design Your Panels
This is where your handbag gets its unique "jean" personality.
Wash and Dry Jeans: Ensure they're clean and any potential shrinkage is out of the way.
Disassemble Jeans:
Cut off the legs.
Carefully use your seam ripper to open up the inseams (the inner leg seams) to get large, flat pieces of denim. You can often leave the outer leg seams (which usually have cool topstitching) intact for a decorative edge.
If you plan to use back pockets, cut them out, leaving about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of fabric around the pocket's stitched edges.
If incorporating the waistband, carefully cut it off the jeans.
Press Flat: Iron all your denim pieces thoroughly to remove creases and make them easier to work with.
Decide on Bag Dimensions: For a versatile medium-sized handbag, a finished size of 12 inches wide x 9 inches tall x 4 inches deep (30.5 x 23 x 10 cm) is a great starting point. We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.
Cutting Formulas (with 1/2" Seam Allowance):
Main Body Panels (Width): Finished width + Finished depth + (2 * SA) = 12" + 4" + 1" = 17 inches
Main Body Panels (Height): Finished height + Finished depth + (2 * SA) = 9" + 4" + 1" = 14 inches
Cut Your Fabric Pieces:
Main Exterior Panels (Denim): Cut 2 rectangles, 17" wide x 14" high. This is where you can sew on existing back pockets, showcase cool fades, or use denim that includes original side seams.
Lining Panels: Cut 2 rectangles, 17" wide x 14" high.
Interfacing (Optional): Cut 2 rectangles, 16" wide x 13" high (1 inch smaller on all sides than your main fabric panels to keep bulk out of the seams). Fuse these to the wrong side of your main denim panels following the manufacturer's instructions.
Zipper Panel Strips (if adding a top zipper): Cut 2 pieces of denim and 2 pieces of lining, each approximately 13" wide x 2" high.
Strap/Handle Pieces:
If using webbing: Cut 2 pieces, 20-25" long for shoulder straps, or 50-60" for a crossbody strap.
If making denim fabric straps: Cut 2-4 rectangles, 4" wide x your desired strap length + 1". (You'll fold these, sew, and turn them right side out).
IV. Sewing Your Unique Denim Handbag
Crucial Tips for Sewing with Denim:
Denim Needle is a Must: Always use a fresh, sharp denim needle (size 90/14 or 100/16). This prevents skipped stitches and broken needles.
Walking Foot: If your machine has one, use it! It dramatically helps feed thick layers of fabric evenly.
Go Slow: Denim is thick. Stitch slowly, especially when going over bulky seams (like where pockets or waistbands are attached). Don't hesitate to hand-crank your machine over particularly challenging spots.
Wonder Clips are Gold: Prefer these over pins for thick denim, as pins can bend or leave noticeable holes.
Topstitching: Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0-3.5mm) for all topstitching for a more professional and authentic jean look. A contrasting thread color (like gold or orange) really enhances this.
Step 1: Prepare Exterior Panels (Add Pockets & Details)
If you're attaching back pockets to your flat denim panels, position them on the right side of your main denim pieces. Topstitch them securely around the sides and bottom edges, leaving the top opening of the pocket functional. Double-stitch for extra durability.
If you're adding any other denim details like belt loops (to attach to a side seam for a key clip or strap) or any decorative patchwork, sew them onto your main exterior panels now.
Step 2: Attach Handles/Strap Connectors
Decide on how your bag will be carried and prepare the attachment points:
Fixed Shoulder Straps (Webbing or Denim Fabric Straps):
Take one Main Exterior Panel (right side up). Measure in about 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each side along the top raw edge. Mark these points.
Align the raw ends of your chosen strap (webbing or a finished denim strap) with these marks. Ensure the strap is flat and not twisted. Pin it securely.
Stitch the strap ends firmly in place within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Use an "X-box" stitch (a box stitched around the strap end with an "X" inside it) for superior reinforcement. Repeat for the other Main Exterior Panel.
D-Ring/Rectangle Ring Connectors (for a detachable strap):
Cut two small denim tabs (e.g., 2" x 4" / 5 x 10 cm). Fold each tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long raw edge. Turn right side out and press. Thread a D-ring or rectangle ring onto each tab.
Attach these tabs (with their raw ends aligned with the raw edge of the bag) to the top side edges of your main exterior panels. Place them about 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) from the top corners, with the ring facing inward towards the bag's center. Stitch them securely within the seam allowance, again using an X-box stitch.
Step 3: Construct the Main Bag Body
Place the two Main Exterior Panels right sides together, carefully aligning all raw edges. Your handles or D-ring connectors should be neatly tucked inside.
Pin securely along both side edges and the entire bottom edge. Leave the top edge (where the handles or D-rings are attached) open.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, begin stitching at one top corner, sew down that side, pivot sharply at the bottom corner, stitch straight across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam for durability.
Press your seams open to reduce bulk and help the bag lay flatter and more neatly.
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This crucial step gives your handbag its defined, flat bottom and structure.
Lay the main bag body flat. Go to one of the bottom corners. Carefully bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.
Measure from the very tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth. (For our example 4-inch deep bag, you'll measure 2 inches / 5 cm).
Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point. This is your new stitching line.
Pin firmly along this drawn line.
Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends to reinforce the corner.
Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.
Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of your main bag body. Result: Your main bag now has a beautifully defined, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out for the next step.
Step 5: Construct the Lining Bag Body
The lining is constructed almost identically to the main bag, with one extremely important difference.
Place the two Lining Fabric panels right sides together, aligning all raw edges.
Pin along both side edges and the entire bottom edge.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side seam.
CRUCIAL STEP: For the bottom seam, you MUST leave an opening! Stitch approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) from one side, then leave a 5-6 inch (12.5-15 cm) unstitched gap in the middle of the bottom seam. After the gap, stitch for another 3 inches (7.5 cm) to reach the other side seam. Backstitch well at the start and end of the stitched sections around your opening. This opening is absolutely essential for turning the entire bag right side out later.
Stitch up the second side seam.
Press your seams open.
Box the Corners of the Lining Bag: Box the corners of your lining bag using the exact same method you used for the main bag (refer back to Step 4). Result: Your lining bag is now fully constructed, with that vital turning opening at the bottom. Keep it wrong side out.
Step 6: Add a Zipper Top (Optional) or Install Magnetic Snap
Choose your desired closure method:
Option A: Simple Zipper Top (More Involved but Secure)
Take your zipper and the two denim zipper panel strips and two lining zipper panel strips.
Encase the Zipper: Place the zipper right side up. Lay one denim zipper panel strip right side down on top of the zipper, aligning its raw edge with the zipper tape. Stitch with your zipper foot. Open the denim away from the zipper and press. Now, take one lining zipper panel strip (right side down) and place it on top of the zipper, aligning its raw edge with the same zipper tape edge you just sewed to the denim. Stitch directly on top of your previous stitch line. This hides the zipper tape neatly between the denim and lining. Repeat this entire process for the other side of the zipper, using the remaining denim and lining strips.
Topstitch along both sides of the zipper through all layers for a clean finish.
Attach Zipper Panel to Bag: Find the center of the main bag's top opening and the center of the denim side of your completed zipper panel. Align these centers, right sides together, and pin the zipper panel to the top raw edge of the main bag opening. Stitch with a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the bag. Press seams towards the zipper panel.
Option B: Magnetic Snap (Easier and Quicker)
This is typically installed on the lining pieces before you join the main and lining bags.
On one of your lining panels, measure down about 1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm) from the top raw edge and find the horizontal center. Mark where the prongs of one half of the snap will go.
Carefully cut small, precise slits for the prongs using a seam ripper or small scissors.
Insert the snap prongs through the slits from the right side of the fabric. Place the metal washer over the prongs on the wrong side and bend the prongs outwards to secure.
Repeat for the other half of the snap on the opposite lining panel, ensuring they align perfectly when the bag is closed.
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Step 7: Join the Main Bag and the Lining (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)
This clever technique encloses all raw seams at the top of your bag, giving it a super clean and professional finish.
Ensure your main bag body is right side out. (If you added a zipper panel, the zipper is now part of your main bag's top opening).
Ensure your lining bag body is wrong side out (and still has that crucial opening in its bottom seam).
Carefully insert the main bag body into the lining bag body. The right sides of both bags should now be facing each other.
Align the side seams of the main bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
Align the top raw edges of the main bag (or zipper panel) and the lining bag all around the entire opening. Pin securely all the way around this top edge, matching seams precisely.
Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly, especially when you encounter the bulkier handle attachment points or zipper ends. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
Trim & Clip: To reduce bulk, trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm).
Step 8: Turn Your Bag Right Side Out & Finish
The grand reveal!
Reach through the opening you deliberately left in the bottom seam of the lining.
Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (main body, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. Take your time, gently push out all the corners of both the main bag and the lining to get a crisp, well-defined shape.
Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
Now, push the lining down into the bag.
Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag. Make sure the lining is fully tucked inside and isn't peeking out over the top of the main fabric. For a professional finish, topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the finished edge. This final topstitching secures the lining, helps the bag hold its shape, and adds that polished touch.
V. Unleash Your Style!
Embrace the Patina: Don't shy away from natural fading, worn spots, or even small distressed areas on the denim – these truly add unique character!
Patchwork: Combine denim from different jeans (varying washes!) for a unique patchwork effect on your panels.
Embellishments: Before final assembly, consider adding embroidery, fabric paint, cool iron-on patches, studs, or even subtle rhinestones for extra flair.
Keychain/Charm: Attach a stylish tassel, a metal charm, or a vintage key to one of your strap connectors or a repurposed belt loop for a personal touch.
You've now created a truly unique and stylish handbag from an old pair of jeans! How will you customize yours to reflect your personal style?
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