Creating a zippered tote bag is a rewarding sewing project that results in a practical and stylish accessory. Here's a detailed guide on how to make one, covering everything from materials to finishing touches.
How to Make a Zippered Tote Bag (Sewing)
This guide assumes you have basic sewing machine knowledge.
I. Materials You'll Need:
- Main Fabric: Durable fabric like canvas, duck cloth, denim, home dΓ©cor fabric, or even a sturdy cotton twill.
- Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards, depending on the size of your bag and if you're piecing for the exterior.
- Lining Fabric: A lighter weight cotton or cotton blend fabric.
- Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards (same as main fabric).
- Interfacing (Optional but Recommended):
- Fusible Fleece or Foam Interfacing: For body and structure (e.g., Pellon SF101, Bosal In-R-Form).
- Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards.
- Medium-Weight Fusible Interfacing: For reinforcing the zipper area and handles.
- Recommendation: 0.5 to 1 yard.
- Fusible Fleece or Foam Interfacing: For body and structure (e.g., Pellon SF101, Bosal In-R-Form).
- Zipper: A nylon coil zipper is generally easiest to work with.
- Recommendation: At least 2 inches longer than the top width of your bag. (e.g., 18-22 inches for a medium tote).
- Webbing or Fabric for Handles:
- Webbing: Cotton or poly webbing (1.5 inches wide is common).
- Recommendation: 1.5 to 2 yards.
- Fabric: If making fabric handles, you'll need extra main fabric.
- Webbing: Cotton or poly webbing (1.5 inches wide is common).
- Thread: All-purpose polyester thread that matches or complements your fabrics.
- Basic Sewing Supplies:
- Sewing Machine
- Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
- Quilting Ruler
- Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
- Pins or Wonder Clips
- Iron and Ironing Board
- Zipper Foot for your sewing machine
- Seam Ripper (just in case!)
II. Cutting Your Fabric Pieces:
Before you cut, decide on your desired bag dimensions. A good starting point for a medium tote is approximately 14-16 inches wide by 12-14 inches tall by 4-6 inches deep.
Let's assume a finished bag size of 15" wide x 13" tall x 5" deep.
For this example, we'll calculate the cut sizes:
- Bag Width (W): 15"
- Bag Height (H): 13"
- Bag Depth (D): 5"
- Seam Allowance: 1/2" (standard, adjust if you prefer 3/8" or 1/4")
Formulas for Cutting Dimensions:
- Body Panels (Main & Lining):
- Width: W + D + 2 * Seam Allowance = 15" + 5" + 1" = 21"
- Height: H + D + 2 * Seam Allowance = 13" + 5" + 1" = 19"
- Zipper Panel Strips (Main & Lining):
- Length: W + 2 * Seam Allowance = 15" + 1" = 16"
- Width: (Zipper Panel Height / 2) + Seam Allowance (e.g., if total zipper panel is 2", each strip is 1" + 0.5" SA = 1.5")
- Let's aim for a finished zipper panel height of 2 inches (1 inch on each side of zipper). So each strip is 1" + 0.5" SA = 1.5"
- Handles (Webbing or Fabric):
- Webbing: Cut two pieces, each 25-30 inches long (adjust to your preference).
- Fabric Handles: Cut two pieces of main fabric, each 4" wide x 26-31" long (length of webbing + 1").
Based on the 15"W x 13"H x 5"D example (using 1/2" seam allowance):
- Main Fabric:
- Bag Body: Cut 2 rectangles, 21" wide x 19" high.
- Zipper Panel Strips: Cut 2 rectangles, 16" wide x 1.5" high.
- Handles (if fabric): Cut 2 rectangles, 4" wide x (your desired handle length + 1").
- Lining Fabric:
- Bag Body: Cut 2 rectangles, 21" wide x 19" high.
- Zipper Panel Strips: Cut 2 rectangles, 16" wide x 1.5" high.
- Interfacing:
- Fusible Fleece/Foam: Cut 2 rectangles, 20" wide x 18" high (1" smaller than main body on all sides for seam allowance ease).
- Medium-Weight Fusible:
- Zipper Panel Reinforcement: Cut 2 rectangles, 15" wide x 1" high (1/2" smaller on the length than your zipper strips, and 1/2" smaller on the height).
- Handle Reinforcement (if using fabric handles, or for webbing attachment area): Cut 4 rectangles, 1.5" wide x 4" high. (Adjust size if needed for your handle placement).
III. Interfacing Application:
- Main Body Panels: Lay your main fabric body panels wrong side up. Center the fusible fleece/foam interfacing on each panel, leaving a 1/2" border around all edges. Fuse according to the manufacturer's instructions (usually with heat and steam).
- Zipper Panel Strips (Main Fabric): Fuse the medium-weight interfacing to the wrong side of the main fabric zipper panel strips, centering it.
- Handle Reinforcement (Optional): If using, fuse the small rectangles of medium-weight interfacing to the wrong side of your main bag body panels where the handles will be attached. This adds extra durability.
IV. Constructing the Zipper Panel:
- Prepare Zipper Strips: Take one main fabric zipper strip and one lining fabric zipper strip. Press one long edge of each strip under by 1/2" (wrong sides together). This will be the edge that attaches to the zipper.
- Attach Main Fabric to Zipper: Place your zipper right side up. Lay one main fabric zipper strip right side down on top of the zipper, aligning the pressed edge with one edge of the zipper tape. Pin in place.
- Tip: The zipper pull should be at least 1/2" from the fabric edge when starting to sew to avoid bulky seams later.
- Stitch Main Fabric: Using your zipper foot, stitch along the edge of the zipper tape. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
- Attach Lining Fabric to Zipper: Flip the fabric over so the wrong side of the zipper strip is facing up. Place one lining fabric zipper strip right side down on top of the zipper, aligning its pressed edge with the same zipper tape edge. The main fabric strip will be sandwiched in between the zipper and lining strip. Pin in place.
- Stitch Lining Fabric: Stitch along the edge of the zipper tape, right on top of your previous stitching line, or very close to it. This "encases" the zipper tape.
- Repeat for the Other Side: Repeat steps 2-5 for the other main and lining zipper strips on the opposite side of the zipper.
- Topstitch: Open out the zipper panel so the main fabric and lining fabric are pulled away from the zipper. Press well. Topstitch very close to both sides of the zipper, through all layers, to secure the fabric and give a professional finish.
V. Assembling the Bag Exterior:
- Attach Handles:
- Webbing: Measure in from each side of one main bag body panel (e.g., 4-5 inches, adjust based on bag width and desired handle drop). Pin one end of each webbing strap to the top edge of the panel, right side up, ensuring they are not twisted. Repeat for the second main body panel. Stitch securely within the seam allowance (e.g., 1/4" from edge), backstitching several times.
- Fabric Handles:
- Fold your fabric handle strips in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch a 1/2" seam along the raw edge. Turn right side out and press, centering the seam at the back. Topstitch along both long edges for a neat finish.
- Attach to the main body panels as described for webbing, ensuring the raw ends are aligned with the top edge.
- Sew Side Seams: Place the two main bag body panels right sides together, aligning the raw edges. Pin along the sides and bottom.
- Stitch Sides and Bottom: Stitch along the pinned edges with a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving the top open. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.
- Box the Corners:
- At each bottom corner, flatten the fabric so the side seam aligns with the bottom seam, forming a triangle.
- Measure in from the tip of the triangle a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 5" depth, measure 2.5"). Draw a line perpendicular to the seam.
- Stitch along this line, backstitching well.
- Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2" seam allowance.
- Repeat for all four corners (two exterior, two lining).
VI. Assembling the Bag Lining:
- Sew Side Seams: Place the two lining fabric body panels right sides together. Pin along the sides and bottom.
- Stitch Sides and Bottom: Stitch along the pinned edges with a 1/2" seam allowance. IMPORTANT: Leave a 5-6 inch opening along the bottom seam of the lining. This opening will be used for turning the bag right side out later. Backstitch securely at the beginning and end of your stitching on either side of the opening.
- Box the Corners: Box the corners of the lining in the same way you did for the exterior bag.
VII. Attaching the Zipper Panel to the Bag Body:
- Prepare Exterior: Turn the exterior bag body right side out.
- Attach Zipper Panel to Exterior:
- Lay the exterior bag flat. Find the center of the top edge of both the front and back of the exterior bag.
- Find the center of the main fabric side of your completed zipper panel.
- With the zipper open halfway, align the center of the zipper panel (main fabric side) with the center of the top edge of one exterior bag panel, right sides together. Pin the zipper panel to the top raw edge of the exterior bag. Continue pinning along the entire length.
- Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance.
- Repeat for the other side of the exterior bag and the other side of the zipper panel.
- Press the seam allowances towards the zipper panel.
VIII. Finishing the Bag:
- Prepare Lining: Ensure the lining is still wrong side out with the opening at the bottom.
- Insert Exterior into Lining: Carefully insert the exterior bag (which is right side out with the zipper panel attached) into the lining bag (which is wrong side out). The right sides of the main and lining zipper panel fabric should be facing each other.
- Align and Pin: Align the side seams of the main bag and lining bag. Align the raw top edges of the main zipper panel with the raw top edges of the lining zipper panel. Pin all around the top opening.
- Stitch Top Opening: Stitch all around the top opening with a 1/2" seam allowance. Go slowly, ensuring all layers are caught.
- Trim and Clip: Trim excess seam allowance if bulky. Clip curves (if any) or notch corners of the seam allowance around the top.
- Turn Right Side Out: Reach through the opening you left in the bottom of the lining. Carefully pull the entire bag right side out. Take your time to push out all corners.
- Close Lining Opening: Press the raw edges of the opening in the lining under by 1/2". Stitch the opening closed by machine (very close to the edge) or by hand using a ladder stitch for an invisible finish.
- Press and Finish: Push the lining down into the bag. Press the top edge of the bag, making sure the lining isn't peeking out. Topstitch around the entire top edge of the bag for a crisp finish and to secure the lining in place.
- Final Touches: Zip and unzip your new tote bag to test it out!
IX. Tips for Success:
- Pre-wash your fabrics: This prevents shrinking later.
- Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter: For clean, accurate cuts.
- Press as you go: Pressing seams after each step makes a huge difference in the final appearance.
- Use plenty of pins or clips: Especially when attaching the zipper panel.
- Go slow with the zipper: Don't rush, and use your zipper foot.
- Don't skip the interfacing: It adds structure and makes your bag look more professional.
- Practice on scraps: If you're unsure about a step, practice on a scrap of fabric first.
Enjoy your new handmade zippered tote bag! It's a versatile accessory perfect for groceries, books, or everyday essentials.
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