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How to Make a Simple and Easy Blanket Bag 👜👜


Want to whip up a quick and easy blanket bag? It's a fantastic project for beginners and super practical for storing throws, carrying a picnic blanket, or keeping an extra comforter tidy. This guide focuses on a simple drawstring style, making it incredibly straightforward to sew.

How to Make a Simple and Easy Blanket Bag

This method uses basic shapes and techniques, making it achievable for anyone with a sewing machine. The beauty of this bag lies in its simplicity and versatility.

I. What Makes This Bag Simple & Easy?

  • Rectangular Shape: We'll be cutting just one main rectangle of fabric. No tricky curves or multiple pattern pieces.
  • Drawstring Closure: Much easier than a zipper or buttons, and very effective for a blanket bag.
  • No Lining (Optional): To keep it super simple, we can skip a full lining. If your fabric is prone to fraying, we'll use a simple finished seam or serge the edges.

II. Gather Your Materials

Choose a fabric that's durable enough to hold a blanket, but not too heavy that it's difficult to sew.

  1. Main Fabric:
    • Recommendation: 1.5 to 2 yards (1.4 to 1.8 meters) of a medium-to-heavyweight fabric.
    • Good Choices:
      • Canvas or Duck Cloth: Very durable and comes in many colors and prints. Great for outdoor blankets.
      • Home Décor Fabric: Often thicker and comes in lovely patterns, perfect for throws.
      • Denim: Sturdy and classic, could even upcycle old jeans for a patchwork look.
      • Heavy Cotton Twill: A good all-around choice.
    • Tip: Consider if you want a bag that breathes for natural fibers, or something more protective for outdoor use.
  2. Drawstring Cord:
    • Recommendation: About 2.5 to 3 yards (2.3 to 2.7 meters) of cotton cording, rope, or sturdy ribbon (e.g., 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch wide). Choose something strong that won't fray easily.
  3. Thread: All-purpose polyester thread that matches or complements your fabric.
  4. Basic Sewing Supplies:
    • Sewing Machine
    • Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
    • Quilting Ruler or Measuring Tape
    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
    • Pins or Fabric Clips
    • Iron and Ironing Board
    • Safety Pin or Bodkin (for threading the drawstring)
    • Seam Ripper (just in case!)

III. Determine Size & Cut Your Fabric

The size of your blanket bag depends on the blanket! A good rule of thumb is to measure your folded blanket and add extra for height and width.

Let's assume you want a bag for a standard throw blanket, resulting in a finished bag about 20 inches wide x 24 inches tall (51 cm x 61 cm).

We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.

Cutting Formulas (with 1/2" SA):

  • Bag Width: Finished width + 1 inch (for 1/2" SA on each side) = 20" + 1" = 21 inches
  • Bag Height: (Finished height * 2) + 1 inch (for bottom SA) + 6 inches (for casing) = (24" * 2) + 1" + 6" = 48" + 1" + 6" = 55 inches

Your Cut Piece:

  • Main Fabric: Cut 1 rectangle, 21 inches wide x 55 inches high (53.3 cm x 139.7 cm).

    • Why one large piece? This avoids a bottom seam, making it super simple!

IV. Let's Start Sewing!

Quick Tips for Best Results:

  • Press as you go! Ironing helps seams lie flat and creates a neat finish.
  • Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam to secure it.
  • Finish Raw Edges (Optional but Recommended): To prevent fraying, you can zigzag stitch or serge the side raw edges of your fabric before sewing the main seam. This isn't strictly necessary for all fabrics, but it will make your bag more durable over time.

Step 1: Hem the Top Edges for the Drawstring Casing

The "top" edges of your single large fabric piece will become the opening for your bag.

  1. Take your large fabric rectangle. Lay it flat, wrong side up.
  2. Along both of the shorter (21-inch) edges, fold the raw edge over towards the wrong side by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) and press.
  3. Fold over again by 2.5 inches (6.35 cm) and press firmly. This creates a sturdy hem for your drawstring casing.
  4. Stitch along the inner folded edge of this hem, leaving both ends open. Sew about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the folded edge. This forms the channel for your drawstring. Repeat for both shorter edges.


Step 2: Sew the Side Seams

This simple step forms the body of your bag.

  1. Fold your large fabric rectangle in half lengthwise, right sides together. The two hemmed casing edges should align perfectly at the top.
  2. Pin along both long raw side edges.
  3. Using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down each side, starting from just below your casing stitching down to the bottom fold. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seams.
  4. Press your side seams open.

Step 3: Box the Corners (Optional, for a Flat Bottom)

If you want your blanket bag to have a flat bottom instead of being a simple tube, box the corners. If you prefer a tube-style bag, skip this step.

  1. Lay the bag flat, with one of the side seams aligned with the bottom fold.
  2. At one of the bottom corners, bring the side seam and the bottom fold together, aligning them perfectly. This forms a triangular shape at the corner.
  3. Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth. (For a 5-inch deep bag, you'd measure 2.5 inches / 6.35 cm).
  4. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measurement point. This is your new stitching line.
  5. Pin firmly along this drawn line.
  6. Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.
  7. Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.
  8. Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of your bag.

Step 4: Thread the Drawstring

Now, to make it a drawstring bag!

  1. Turn the bag right side out.
  2. Find the opening in one of your casings (the hemmed channel you made in Step 1).
  3. Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of your drawstring cord.
  4. Thread the cord through the casing, all the way around the top opening of the bag, until it emerges from the same opening where you started.
  5. Optional: To prevent the cord from being pulled out, you can tie the two ends together in a knot. For a neater look, you can fold the cord ends under and stitch them (or use cord caps if you have them).

V. Finishing Touches & Styling

Your simple blanket bag is complete!

  • Press Well: Give the entire bag a good press to make it crisp and neat.
  • Test it Out: Cinch the drawstring tight to close the bag.
  • Add a Label: If you have a custom fabric label, this is a great place to sew it on.
  • Embellish: For a more stylish touch, you could add patches, embroidery, or fabric paint before you sew the bag.

This simple bag is incredibly versatile – perfect for storing blankets, laundry, toys, or even as a casual beach bag. Enjoy your easy-to-sew creation!

Video Tutorial 👇👇
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How to Easily Sew a Stylish Zipper Bag from Old Jeans

 

Want to turn those old jeans into a cool, new zipper bag? It's easier than you think, and the result is a durable, stylish, and totally unique accessory. This guide focuses on the simplest way to get a great-looking zippered bag by leveraging the existing features of your old denim.

How to Easily Sew a Stylish Zipper Bag from Old Jeans

This method is perfect for beginners because it minimizes complicated steps and makes the most of the sturdy nature of denim. The "stylish" part comes from the inherent cool factor of repurposed denim, especially if you incorporate original jean details.

I. Planning Your Upcycled Bag

Before you grab the scissors, think about the size and shape you want. This will dictate which parts of your jeans you'll use.

  • Small Pouch: Great for coins, makeup, or small essentials. Uses a smaller section of denim.
  • Medium Pouch/Project Bag: Ideal for toiletries, art supplies, or tech accessories. You can often use a jean back pocket as one side!

Key to Style: The built-in character of old jeans – their fade, worn spots, and existing seams or pockets – makes the bag unique without extra effort from you.

II. Gather Your Materials

You probably have most of these lying around!

  1. Old Jeans: One pair is usually enough for a small to medium bag. Look for jeans with good, sturdy denim.
  2. Zipper: A nylon coil zipper is easiest to sew. Choose one that's at least 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the desired top width of your bag (e.g., an 8-inch or 10-inch zipper is common for small bags).
  3. Lining Fabric (Optional but Recommended): About 1/4 to 1/2 yard (0.25 to 0.5 meters) of lightweight cotton or poly-cotton. A contrasting color or fun print adds a nice pop when the bag is opened.
  4. Thread: All-purpose polyester thread. You can match your denim or use a contrasting color (like gold or orange, similar to jean topstitching) for a deliberate, stylish look.
  5. Basic Sewing Supplies:
    • Sewing Machine (with a heavy-duty needle, like a denim 90/14 or 100/16 – essential for thick denim!)
    • Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
    • Quilting Ruler
    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
    • Plenty of Pins or Wonder Clips (clips are fantastic for thick denim seams)
    • Iron and Ironing Board
    • Zipper Foot for your sewing machine
    • Seam Ripper (denim can be a challenge, so this is your friend!)

III. Prepare Your Denim

This is where you decide what cool jean features to keep.

  1. Wash and Dry Jeans: Make sure they're clean and any shrinking is out of the way.
  2. Cut Off Legs: Lay the jeans flat. Cut off the legs. You can save the waistband, fly, and top pockets for other projects, or incorporate them into a larger bag if you're feeling adventurous later.
  3. Open Up Leg Seams (Recommended for Flat Pieces): Use your seam ripper to carefully open up the inseam (the seam on the inside of the leg). This gives you larger, flatter panels of denim to work with. You can keep the outer side seam (often with cool topstitching) intact for a decorative element.
  4. Press Flat: Iron the denim pieces thoroughly, especially if you've opened seams, to get them as flat as possible.

IV. Design & Cut Your Bag Pieces

This is where your bag gets its unique "jean" style. Let's aim for a simple pouch using a back pocket.

Example Bag Design: Small Pouch (approx. 9" wide x 6" tall / 23 cm x 15 cm finished)

We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.

  1. Main Exterior Panels (Denim):
    • Front Panel: Carefully cut out one back pocket from your jeans. Cut around it, leaving approximately 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance on the sides and bottom. You can cut the top edge of the pocket straight across if it's uneven. The pocket itself will become the stylish front of your bag!
    • Back Panel: Cut one rectangle of flat denim, 10 inches wide x 7 inches high (25.5 cm x 18 cm). If you want two pockets, cut out another back pocket.
  2. Lining Panels (Lining Fabric):
    • Cut two rectangles, 10 inches wide x 7 inches high (25.5 cm x 18 cm).

V. Let's Start Sewing! (The Easy Way)

Important Tips for Sewing Denim:

  • Denim Needle: Seriously, use one! It prevents skipped stitches and broken needles.
  • Wonder Clips: These are your best friends for thick denim seams, where pins might struggle.
  • Slow Down: Denim is thick. Go slowly, especially over bulky seams. You might even need to hand-crank your machine over super thick spots.
  • Stitch Length: Increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., 2.8 - 3.2 mm) for topstitching and general construction.



Step 1: Attach Zipper to Main Exterior Panels

This is often seen as the trickiest part, but we'll do it simply.

  1. Lay one Main Exterior Denim Panel right side up on your work surface.

  2. Place your zipper right side down along the top edge of the denim panel. Align the top edge of the denim with the top edge of the zipper tape. Make sure the zipper is centered horizontally on the denim.

  3. Pin in place.

  4. Attach your Zipper Foot to your sewing machine.

  5. Sew along the zipper tape, close to the zipper teeth (but don't hit them!), using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

  6. Open out the fabric and press the denim panel away from the zipper.

  7. Topstitch: On the right side of the denim, sew another line of stitching very close to the zipper seam you just made (about 1/8 inch / 0.3 cm from the seam). This looks professional and helps the fabric lay flat.

  8. Repeat this process for the second Main Exterior Denim Panel and the unsewn side of your zipper.

    Result: You now have your two exterior denim panels joined by the zipper, with nice topstitching.

Step 2: Attach Zipper to Lining Panels (The "Hidden Seam" Method)

This step hides the zipper tape for a super clean interior.

  1. Lay the exterior piece (with the zipper attached) flat, right side up.

  2. Take one Lining Panel. Place it right side down on top of one of the denim panels, aligning its top edge with the same zipper edge you just sewed to the denim. The denim panel and the lining panel should be sandwiching the zipper.

  3. Pin in place.

  4. Using your zipper foot, sew along the seam you previously made (or very close to it), through the lining, zipper tape, and denim. This effectively encloses the zipper tape between the denim and the lining. Backstitch.

  5. Open out the fabric and press the lining away from the zipper.

  6. Repeat for the other side: Take the second Lining Panel. Place it right side down on top of the other denim panel, aligning its top edge with the remaining unsewn side of the zipper. Pin and stitch.

  7. Open out the fabric and press the lining away from the zipper.

    Result: All four panels (2 denim, 2 lining) are now attached to the zipper, with the zipper tape neatly hidden between the layers.

Step 3: Sew Side and Bottom Seams (The "Bag Within a Bag" Method)

This clever method makes all your raw seams disappear inside the bag!

  1. Open the zipper at least halfway! This is crucial for turning the bag right side out later.
  2. Separate Layers: Pull the two exterior denim panels so their right sides are together. Align all side and bottom edges. Pin along the sides and bottom.
  3. Pull the two lining panels so their right sides are together. Align all side and bottom edges. Pin along the sides and bottom.
  4. Stitch Exterior: Using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch the side and bottom seams of the exterior denim panels. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seams.
  5. Stitch Lining: Using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch the side and bottom seams of the lining panels. However, you must leave an opening in the bottom seam of the lining! Stitch for about 2 inches (5 cm) from one side, then leave a 4-5 inch (10-12.5 cm) gap in the middle of the bottom seam. Stitch for another 2 inches (5 cm) to the other side seam. Backstitch well at the start and end of the stitched sections around your opening.
  6. Press Seams Open: Press all your side and bottom seams open to reduce bulk. Denim can be very thick, so this step is important.

Step 4: Box the Corners (Optional, for Depth)

If you want your bag to have a flat bottom instead of being completely flat, box the corners. If you prefer a simple flat pouch, skip this step.

  1. For both the exterior and lining bags: At each bottom corner, flatten the fabric so the side seam and the bottom seam are perfectly aligned. This creates a triangular shape.
  2. Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 2-inch depth, measure 1 inch / 2.5 cm).
  3. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measurement point.
  4. Pin along this drawn line.
  5. Stitch along the drawn line, backstitching securely.
  6. Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance.
  7. Repeat for all four corners (two on the exterior, two on the lining).


Step 5: Final Assembly & Turning

This is where the magic happens and your bag comes together!

  1. With the zipper still open halfway, and both the exterior and lining wrong side out:
  2. Reach inside the lining through its bottom opening.
  3. Place the exterior bag (which is now right side out, with the zipper attached) inside the lining bag (which is still wrong side out). The right sides of the lining and the exterior should be facing each other.
  4. Align the side seams of the exterior and lining bags.
  5. Carefully align the top raw edges of the exterior and lining fabric all around the zipper, ensuring the zipper is centered. Pin securely all around the top opening.
  6. Using a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially over the zipper teeth. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
  7. Trim & Clip: Trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk.

Step 6: Turn Right Side Out & Finish

Almost done!

  1. Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
  2. Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (exterior, zipper, lining) through this opening until it is right side out. Take your time pushing out all the corners.
  3. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm). Align the pressed edges and pin them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (very close to the folded edge) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a super clean finish.
  4. Push the lining down into the bag.
  5. Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag, making sure the lining is tucked neatly inside and not showing. For a crisp, professional look, topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the zipper. This secures the lining and helps the bag hold its shape.

VI. Make It "Special" & Stylish!

  • Embrace the Patina: The natural fading, wear marks, and even small distressed areas of old jeans add character.
  • Original Features: Using a back pocket is the easiest way to make it unique. You could also include a belt loop on a side seam to attach a keychain or wrist strap.
  • Contrast Thread: Use a thick, contrasting thread (like gold, orange, or even red) for your topstitching to mimic classic jean stitching.
  • Zipper Pull: Add a fun tassel, charm, or a small piece of coordinating fabric to the zipper pull.
  • Patches/Embroidery: Before assembling, sew on a cool patch or add some simple embroidery for extra personalization.

Now you have a fantastic, stylish, and sustainable zipper bag made from your old jeans! What will you fill it with?

Learn with Video Tutorial



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How to Sew a Stylish Tote Bag Simply - Free Pattern


Let's make a stylish tote bag that's easy to sew! This guide focuses on a simple, classic design that looks chic without needing complicated techniques. The key to making it stylish is often in your fabric choice and a few neat finishing touches.

How to Sew a Stylish Tote Bag Simply

This method is perfect for beginners or anyone looking for a quick and satisfying sewing project. We'll create a structured, rectangular tote with a clean lining, making it look polished and professional.

I. What Makes This Tote Simple & Stylish?

  • Simple Shape: Just rectangles, so cutting and sewing are straightforward.
  • Minimal Seams: Mostly straight lines, which speeds up construction.
  • Clean Finish: We'll use a full lining to hide all raw seams inside.
  • Fabric is Key: The style comes largely from choosing a beautiful main fabric and a complementary lining.

II. Gather Your Materials

The right materials make all the difference for a stylish outcome!

  1. Main Fabric:
    • Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of a medium-to-heavy weight fabric. This provides structure and durability.
    • Stylish Choices:
      • Canvas or Duck Cloth: Excellent durability, comes in endless colors and prints.
      • Home Décor Fabric: Often thicker with rich textures and beautiful patterns.
      • Denim: Classic, sturdy, and always in style.
      • Faux Leather/Vegan Suede: Elevates the look instantly, but can be a bit trickier to sew (a walking foot and leather needle are helpful).
    • Avoid: Very thin, flimsy, or overly stretchy fabrics for your first tote.
  2. Lining Fabric:
    • Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of lightweight cotton or poly-cotton.
    • Why: It gives your bag a polished interior, hides raw seams, and can add a fun pop of contrasting color or pattern.
  3. Webbing for Handles:
    • Recommendation: 1.5-inch (3.8 cm) wide cotton or polypropylene webbing. You'll need about 1.5 to 2 yards (1.4 to 1.8 meters). Choose a color that complements your main fabric.
    • Alternative: You can make fabric handles from your main fabric (cut 4" wide strips, fold, and sew), but webbing is quicker and very durable.
  4. Interfacing (Optional, but Recommended for Structure):
    • Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of medium-weight fusible interfacing (like Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex).
    • Why: It adds body, prevents your bag from looking "floppy," and gives it a more professional, structured appearance.
  5. Thread: All-purpose polyester thread that matches or complements your fabrics.
  6. Basic Sewing Supplies:
    • Sewing Machine (a walking foot is helpful for thick fabrics)
    • Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
    • Quilting Ruler
    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
    • Plenty of Pins or Wonder Clips (clips are excellent for thicker fabrics)
    • Iron and Ironing Board
    • Seam Ripper (just in case!)

III. Plan Your Size & Cut Your Fabric

Let's aim for a versatile, medium-sized tote, great for everyday use, books, or errands. We'll use a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout this project.

Example Finished Size: Approximately 14 inches wide x 12 inches tall x 5 inches deep (35.5 cm x 30.5 cm x 12.7 cm).

Cutting Formulas (with 1/2" Seam Allowance):

  • Main Body Panels (Width): Finished width + Finished depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 14" + 5" + 1" = 20 inches
  • Main Body Panels (Height): Finished height + Finished depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 12" + 5" + 1" = 18 inches

Your Cut Pieces:

  1. Main Fabric (Bag Body): Cut 2 rectangles, each 20" wide x 18" high.
  2. Lining Fabric (Lining Body): Cut 2 rectangles, each 20" wide x 18" high.
  3. Interfacing (Optional): Cut 2 rectangles, each 19" wide x 17" high (1 inch smaller on all sides than your main fabric panels to keep bulk out of seams). Fuse these to the wrong side of your main fabric body panels according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  4. Webbing for Handles: Cut 2 pieces, each 25 inches (63.5 cm) long. (You can adjust this length based on how long you want your handles to be; 25-30 inches is a common comfortable range).

IV. Let's Start Sewing!

Quick Tips for Best Results:

  • Press as you go! Ironing seams after each step makes your bag look much more professional and crisp.
  • Use plenty of pins or clips. They keep your fabric from shifting, especially with thicker materials.
  • Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam to secure your stitches.
  • Increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., 2.8 - 3.2 mm) for topstitching; it looks neater.


Step 1: Attach Your Handles

  1. Take one of your Main Fabric body panels (which should now have interfacing fused to its wrong side, if you're using it). Lay it right side up on your work surface.
  2. Measure in from each side edge along the top by about 4 inches (10 cm). Mark these points with chalk or a fabric pen. These marks indicate where your handles will be attached.
  3. Take one of your webbing handles. Align one end of the webbing with your mark on the top raw edge of the main fabric panel. Ensure the rest of the webbing lies flat on the panel without twisting. Repeat for the other end of the same webbing handle at the other mark. Pin securely.
  4. Stitch the handles in place. Sew two lines of stitching within the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance (e.g., one at 1/4 inch and one at 3/8 inch from the raw edge). Backstitch multiple times over the handle attachment points for maximum strength, as these areas will bear the weight of your bag. For extra reinforcement, you can even sew a small "X" box at the very top of each handle attachment point.
  5. Repeat this entire process for the second Main Fabric body panel and the second webbing handle.

Step 2: Sew the Main Bag Body

  1. Place the two Main Fabric body panels right sides together, carefully aligning all raw edges. The attached handles should be sandwiched neatly inside.
  2. Pin securely along both side edges and the entire bottom edge. Leave the top edge (where the handles are) open.
  3. Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, begin stitching at one top corner, sew down that side, pivot at the bottom corner, stitch straight across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
  4. Press your seams open to reduce bulk and help the bag lay flatter.

Step 3: Box the Corners of the Main Bag

This step creates the flat, structured bottom of your tote bag.

  1. Lay the main bag body flat. The side and bottom seams should be pressed open.
  2. At one of the bottom corners, carefully bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This action will naturally form a triangular shape at the corner.
  3. Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth. (For our 5-inch deep bag, you'll measure 2.5 inches / 6.35 cm).
  4. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measured point. This is your new stitching line.
  5. Pin firmly along this drawn line.
  6. Stitch precisely along the drawn line, backstitching securely at both ends.
  7. Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance beyond your new stitching line.
  8. Repeat this exact process for the other bottom corner of your main bag body. Result: Your main bag now has a defined, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out.

Step 4: Sew the Lining Bag Body

The lining is constructed almost identically to the main bag, with one crucial difference.

  1. Place the two Lining Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all raw edges.
  2. Pin along both side edges and the entire bottom edge.
  3. Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side seam.
  4. CRUCIAL STEP: For the bottom seam, you must leave an opening! Stitch approximately 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one side, then leave a 5-6 inch (12.7-15 cm) opening in the middle of the bottom seam. This opening is absolutely essential for turning the entire bag right side out later. After the gap, stitch for another 3 inches (7.6 cm) to reach the other side seam. Backstitch well at the beginning and end of the stitched sections around your opening.
  5. Stitch up the second side seam.
  6. Press your seams open.
  7. Box the Corners of the Lining Bag: Box the corners of your lining bag using the exact same method you used for the main bag (refer back to Step 3). Result: Your lining bag is now fully constructed, with that important turning opening at the bottom. Keep it wrong side out.


Step 5: Join the Main Bag and the Lining (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)

This clever technique encloses all raw edges at the top of your bag, giving it a super clean and professional finish.

  1. Ensure your main bag body is right side out.
  2. Ensure your lining bag body is wrong side out (and still has that opening in its bottom seam).
  3. Carefully insert the main bag body into the lining bag body.
    • The right sides of both bags should now be facing each other.
    • Align the side seams of the main bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
    • Align the top raw edges of the main fabric and the lining fabric all around the entire opening of the bag.
    • Pin securely all the way around this top edge, matching up seams precisely.
  4. Using your 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially when you encounter the bulkier handle attachment points. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.
  5. Trim & Clip: To reduce bulk, trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4 inch (0.6 cm). If your bag design had any curves, you would clip small notches into the seam allowance here (but for a simple tote, this is mainly for bulk reduction).

Step 6: Turn Your Bag Right Side Out & Finish

This is the exciting part where your bag takes shape!

  1. Reach through the opening you deliberately left in the bottom seam of the lining.
  2. Slowly and carefully pull the entire bag (main body, lining, handles – everything!) through this opening until it is completely right side out. Take your time, gently push out all the corners of both the main bag and the lining to get a crisp, well-defined shape.
  3. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) so they meet neatly. Align these pressed edges and pin them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (sewing very close to the folded edge for a neat finish) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a truly seamless look.
  4. Now, push the lining down into the bag.
  5. Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag. Make sure the lining is fully tucked inside and isn't peeking out over the top of the main fabric.
    • For a super polished and durable finish, topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) from the finished edge. This final topstitching secures the lining in place, helps the bag hold its shape, and adds a professional touch that really elevates a simple design.

V. Simple Touches for Extra Style

Your bag is now complete! Here are a few easy ideas to make it even more uniquely "yours":

  • Pockets: Before sewing the lining side seams (Step 4), add a simple slip pocket to one of your lining panels. Just a rectangle of fabric, hemmed at the top, then topstitched onto the lining.
  • Magnetic Snap: If you want a closure, a magnetic snap is super easy to install. (It's best done on the lining pieces before you join main and lining in Step 5).
  • Key Clip: Sew a small loop of webbing or ribbon into one of the side seams of your lining (before sewing the lining closed) to create a convenient clip for keys.
  • Decorative Tassel/Charm: Attach a stylish tassel or charm to one of the handles for a fun accent.

You've just created a fantastic, stylish tote bag simply and quickly! What will you fill it with first?

Video Tutorial
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The Easiest Way to Sew a Stylish Bag Simply and Quickly


Making a stylish bag doesn't have to be complicated! The easiest way involves choosing the right materials and a simple, classic design that looks chic without needing advanced techniques. We'll focus on a simple tote bag, which is incredibly versatile and can be made quickly.

The Easiest Way to Sew a Stylish Bag Simply and Quickly

This method prioritizes a straightforward design, perfect for beginners, or anyone who wants a great-looking bag without spending hours at the sewing machine. The key is to choose your fabric wisely – a beautiful fabric can make even the simplest bag look luxurious.

I. What Makes This Method Easy & Quick?

  1. Simple Rectangular Shape: No complex curves, tricky corners, or intricate pattern pieces.
  2. Minimal Seams: Primarily straight lines, making it fast to cut and sew.
  3. Basic Construction: We'll use a "bag within a bag" method to create a clean finish inside, avoiding extra steps like binding.
  4. No Zipper (Optional): We'll focus on a magnetic snap or simple toggle closure, or even an open-top for ultimate speed.

II. Materials You'll Need:

The right fabric choice is crucial for a stylish result!

  1. Main Fabric:
    • Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of a medium-to-heavy weight fabric.
    • Stylish Choices:
      • Canvas or Duck Cloth: Durable, great for structure, comes in many colors and prints.
      • Home Décor Fabric: Often thicker, with beautiful patterns and textures.
      • Faux Leather or Vegan Suede: Instantly elevates the look, but can be a bit trickier to sew (use a walking foot, leather needle, and clips instead of pins).
      • Denim: Classic and sturdy, can be upcycled from old jeans.
    • Tip: Avoid very thin or very stretchy fabrics for your first bag.
  2. Lining Fabric:
    • Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of lightweight cotton or poly-cotton.
    • Why: Gives a professional finish, hides raw seams, and can add a fun pop of contrasting color or pattern.
  3. Webbing for Handles:
    • Recommendation: 1.5-inch (3.8 cm) wide cotton or polypropylene webbing. 1.5 to 2 yards (1.4 to 1.8 meters). Choose a color that complements your main fabric.
    • Alternative: You can make fabric handles from your main fabric (cut 4" wide strips, fold and sew), but webbing is quicker and often more durable for a travel bag.
  4. Interfacing (Optional, but Recommended for Structure):
    • Recommendation: 1 to 1.5 yards (0.9 to 1.4 meters) of medium-weight fusible interfacing (e.g., Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex).
    • Why: Adds body, stability, and makes your bag look more professional and less "floppy."
  5. Closure (Choose ONE simple option):
    • Magnetic Snap: 1 set (easy to install).
    • Toggle Button & Loop: 1 large decorative button, and a small strip of matching fabric or elastic for the loop.
    • Open Top: For the absolute fastest bag, no closure needed!
  6. Thread: All-purpose polyester thread that matches or complements your fabrics.
  7. Basic Sewing Supplies:
    • Sewing Machine (with a walking foot if working with thick or slippery fabrics)
    • Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
    • Quilting Ruler
    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
    • Plenty of Pins or Wonder Clips (clips are especially helpful for thicker fabrics)
    • Iron and Ironing Board
    • Seam Ripper (every sewist's best friend!)

III. Planning Your Bag Size & Cutting Your Fabric:

Let's make a versatile medium-sized tote, perfect for daily use or errands. We'll use a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.

Example Finished Size: Approximately 14" wide x 12" tall x 5" deep (35.5 cm x 30.5 cm x 12.7 cm).

Cutting Formulas (with 1/2" SA):

  • Body Panels Width: Finished width + Finished depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 14" + 5" + 1" = 20 inches
  • Body Panels Height: Finished height + Finished depth + (2 * Seam Allowance) = 12" + 5" + 1" = 18 inches
  1. Main Fabric (Bag Body):
    • Cut 2 rectangles, each 20" wide x 18" high.
  2. Lining Fabric (Lining Body):
    • Cut 2 rectangles, each 20" wide x 18" high.
  3. Interfacing (Optional):
    • Cut 2 rectangles, each 19" wide x 17" high (1" smaller than main fabric on all sides to keep bulk out of seams). Fuse these to the wrong side of your main fabric body panels according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  4. Webbing for Handles:
    • Cut 2 pieces, each 25 inches (63.5 cm) long. (Adjust length to your preference; 25-30 inches is common).

IV. Sewing Your Stylish Bag:

General Sewing Tips for a Quick & Clean Finish:

  • Press as you go! Ironing after each seam makes a huge difference in the final look.
  • Use plenty of pins or clips. This helps keep everything aligned.
  • Backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam to secure it.
  • Increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., 2.8 - 3.2 mm) for topstitching for a more professional appearance.

Step 1: Prepare and Attach Handles

  1. Take one of your Main Fabric body panels (with interfacing fused, if using). Lay it right side up.
  2. Measure in from each side edge along the top by about 4 inches (10 cm) and mark these points with chalk or a fabric pen. These are your handle placement guides.
  3. Take one webbing handle. Align one end of the webbing with your mark on the top raw edge of the fabric. The rest of the webbing should lay flat on the panel, without twisting. Repeat for the other end of the same webbing handle on the other mark. Pin securely.
  4. Stitch the handles in place. Sew two lines of stitching within the 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance (e.g., 1/4" and 3/8" from the raw edge). Backstitch multiple times over the handle attachment points for strength, as these will bear the bag's weight. You can also sew a small "X" box at the very top of the handle for extra reinforcement.
  5. Repeat this process for the second Main Fabric body panel and the second webbing handle.

Step 2: Sew Main Bag Body

  1. Place the two Main Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all raw edges. The handles will be sandwiched inside.
  2. Pin along both side edges and the bottom edge. Leave the top edge open.
  3. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side, pivot at the bottom corner, stitch across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner.
  4. Press your seams open to reduce bulk and create a flatter bag.

Step 3: Box the Corners of Main Bag Body

This step gives your bag a flat bottom, creating depth and structure.

  1. Lay the main bag body flat with the side and bottom seams pressed open.
  2. At one of the bottom corners, bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This will create a triangular shape at the corner.
  3. Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 5" depth, measure 2.5 inches / 6.35 cm).
  4. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measurement point. This is your stitching line.
  5. Pin along this drawn line.
  6. Stitch along the drawn line, backstitching securely.
  7. Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance.
  8. Repeat for the other bottom corner of the main bag body. Result: Your main bag now has a defined, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out for now.

Step 4: Sew Lining Bag Body

  1. Place the two Lining Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all raw edges.
  2. Pin along both side edges and the bottom edge.
  3. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side seam.
  4. Crucial: For the bottom seam, leave an opening! Stitch for about 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one side, then leave a 5-6 inch (12.7-15 cm) opening in the middle of the bottom seam. This opening is essential for turning the entire bag right side out later. Stitch for another 3 inches (7.6 cm) to the other side seam. Backstitch at the start and end of these stitched sections.
  5. Stitch up the second side seam.
  6. Press your seams open.
  7. Box the Corners of Lining Bag: Box the corners of the lining bag in the exact same way you did for the main bag (refer to Step 3). Result: Your lining bag is constructed, with a turning opening at the bottom. Keep it wrong side out.


Step 5: Install Closure (if using Magnetic Snap)

If you're using a magnetic snap, this is the easiest time to install it.

  1. On one of your lining panels, measure down from the top raw edge about 2 inches (5 cm) and find the horizontal center. Mark where the prongs of the snap will go.
  2. Cut small, precise slits for the prongs using a seam ripper or small scissors.
  3. Insert the snap prongs through the slits from the right side of the fabric. Place the metal washer over the prongs on the wrong side and bend the prongs outwards to secure.
  4. Repeat for the other half of the snap on the opposite lining panel, ensuring they align perfectly when the bag is closed.

Step 6: Join Main Bag and Lining (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)

This step encloses all raw seams for a clean finish!

  1. Ensure your main bag body is right side out.
  2. Ensure your lining bag body is wrong side out (with the bottom opening).
  3. Carefully insert the main bag body into the lining bag body.
    • The right sides of both bags should be facing each other.
    • Align the side seams of the main bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
    • Align the top raw edges of the main bag and the lining bag all around the entire opening.
    • Pin securely all around the top edge, matching seams.
  4. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially over the bulky handle attachments. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
  5. Trim & Clip: Trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4" (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk. If you have any slight curves, or just for neatness, clip small notches into the seam allowance.

Step 7: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Finish

  1. Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
  2. Carefully pull the entire bag (main body, lining, handles) through this opening until it is right side out. Take your time, push out all corners, and ensure everything is aligned.
  3. Close the Lining Opening: Go to your ironing board. Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2" (1.27 cm). Align the pressed edges and pin them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (very close to the folded edge) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a cleaner finish.
  4. Push the lining down into the bag.
  5. Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag, making sure the lining is tucked neatly inside and not showing from the outside.
    • Topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8" (0.3 cm) from the edge. This final topstitching secures the lining in place, gives a professional finish, and helps the bag hold its shape.

V. Simple Touches for Style:

  • Fabric Choice: This is the #1 way to make a simple bag stylish. A bold print, a rich texture, or a high-quality solid color can make all the difference.
  • Contrast Lining: A pop of contrasting color or pattern inside adds a delightful surprise.
  • Hardware: Add a tassel, a charm, or a fancy key ring to one of the handles.
  • Ribbon Tie: Instead of a snap, sew two short pieces of ribbon to the inside top edges of the bag, allowing you to tie it closed.

You've just created a functional and stylish bag simply and quickly! How will you customize yours?

Video Tutorial



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The simplest way to sew a DIY travel quilted bag easily


Creating a DIY quilted travel bag can be a fun and rewarding project, and the "simplest way" usually involves a straightforward, boxy design with minimal fuss. This guide will focus on using pre-quilted fabric to eliminate the most time-consuming step (the actual quilting!), making it much easier for beginners or those short on time.

The Simplest Way to Sew a DIY Travel Quilted Bag Easily

This method prioritizes a simple construction, often resembling a large, structured tote, perfect for weekend trips, carry-on essentials, or even a craft project bag.

I. What Makes This Method "Simple"?

  1. Pre-Quilted Fabric: This is the biggest time-saver. No need to layer batting and fabrics, baste, and then machine quilt. The fabric is already done for you!
  2. Basic Boxy Shape: Uses simple rectangles, making cutting and assembly straightforward.
  3. Minimal Features: We'll skip complex pockets, fancy closures (a simple magnetic snap or zipper if confident, but a toggle/loop is even simpler), or intricate details.
  4. No Binding (Optional): We'll use a lining to enclose raw seams, avoiding the extra step of binding edges.

II. Materials You'll Need:

  1. Pre-Quilted Fabric:
    • Recommendation: 1.5 to 2 yards (1.4 to 1.8 meters) for a medium to large travel bag (approx. 18"W x 14"H x 6"D finished). Choose a durable blend or cotton.
    • Tip: Look for pre-quilted fabrics with interesting patterns or textures.
  2. Lining Fabric (Optional but Recommended):
    • A lightweight cotton or poly-cotton fabric. Same amount as your pre-quilted fabric (1.5 to 2 yards).
    • Why Recommended: It gives the bag a clean finish inside and adds extra durability.
  3. Webbing for Handles:
    • Recommendation: 1.5-inch (3.8 cm) wide cotton or polypropylene webbing. 2 to 2.5 yards (1.8 to 2.3 meters). Choose a color that complements your fabric.
  4. Closure (Choose ONE simple option):
    • Magnetic Snap: 1 set (easy to install).
    • Toggle Button & Loop: 1 large decorative button, and a small strip of fabric or elastic for the loop.
    • Simple Zipper: (If you're comfortable with zippers) One heavy-duty nylon coil zipper, at least 2 inches longer than the top width of your bag.
  5. Thread: All-purpose polyester thread that matches or complements your fabrics and webbing.
  6. Basic Sewing Supplies:
    • Sewing Machine (with a walking foot if you have one – it helps with bulkier fabrics!)
    • Heavy-duty needle (e.g., size 90/14 or 100/16, especially for pre-quilted fabric)
    • Fabric Shears or Rotary Cutter and Mat
    • Quilting Ruler
    • Fabric Chalk or Mark-B-Gone Pen
    • Plenty of Pins or Wonder Clips (clips are great for thick fabrics)
    • Iron and Ironing Board
    • Seam Ripper (just in case!)

III. Deciding on Size & Cutting Your Fabric:

Let's aim for a finished bag size of approximately 18" wide x 14" tall x 6" deep (46 cm x 36 cm x 15 cm). We'll use a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance throughout.

Cutting Formulas (with 1/2" SA):

  • Width (W): Finished width + finished depth + 2 * SA = 18" + 6" + 1" = 25"
  • Height (H): Finished height + finished depth + 2 * SA = 14" + 6" + 1" = 21"
  1. Pre-Quilted Fabric (Main Body):
    • Cut 2 rectangles, each 25" wide x 21" high (63.5 cm x 53.3 cm).
  2. Lining Fabric (Lining Body):
    • Cut 2 rectangles, each 25" wide x 21" high (63.5 cm x 53.3 cm).
  3. Webbing for Handles:
    • Cut 2 pieces, each 30 inches (76 cm) long. (Adjust length based on your preferred handle drop).

IV. Sewing Your Simple Quilted Travel Bag:

General Tips for Working with Pre-Quilted Fabric:

  • Use a walking foot if you have one – it helps feed multiple layers evenly.
  • Use a heavy-duty needle to prevent bending or breaking.
  • Increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., 3.0-3.5mm) to avoid skipped stitches and accommodate the bulk.
  • Press seams open whenever possible to reduce bulk.
  • Use Wonder Clips instead of pins, as pins can be hard to push through thick layers and might distort the quilting.

Step 1: Prepare and Attach Handles

  1. Take one of your Pre-Quilted Fabric body panels. Lay it right side up.
  2. Measure in from each side edge along the top by about 4.5 to 5 inches (11.5 to 12.7 cm) and mark these points. This is where your handles will attach.
  3. Take one webbing handle. Align one end of the webbing with your mark on the top edge of the fabric. Ensure the webbing is flat and not twisted. Repeat for the other end of the same webbing handle on the other mark. Pin securely.
  4. Stitch the handles in place with two lines of stitching within the 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance (e.g., 1/4" and 3/8" from the raw edge). Backstitch several times at the beginning and end of each stitch line to reinforce, as these handles will bear weight. You can also sew a small "X" box at the very top of the handle attachment for extra strength.
  5. Repeat for the second Pre-Quilted Fabric body panel and the second webbing handle.

Step 2: Sew Main Bag Body

  1. Place the two Pre-Quilted Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all edges.
  2. Pin along both side edges and the bottom edge. Leave the top edge open.
  3. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch from one top corner down the side, pivot at the bottom corner, stitch across the bottom, pivot again, and stitch up the other side to the top corner. Backstitch well at the beginning and end.
  4. Press your seams open to reduce bulk.

Step 3: Box the Corners of Main Bag Body

  1. Lay the main bag body flat with the side and bottom seams pressed open.
  2. At one of the bottom corners, bring the side seam and the bottom seam together, aligning them perfectly. This will create a triangular shape at the corner.
  3. Measure from the tip of this triangle inward along the seam line a distance equal to half of your desired bag depth (e.g., for a 6" depth, measure 3 inches / 7.6 cm).
  4. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam at this measurement point. This line represents where you will sew.
  5. Pin along this drawn line.
  6. Stitch along the drawn line, backstitching securely at the beginning and end.
  7. Trim the excess fabric from the corner, leaving about a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance.
  8. Repeat for the other bottom corner of the main bag body. Result: Your main bag now has a defined, flat bottom. Keep it wrong side out.

Step 4: Sew Lining Bag Body

  1. Place the two Lining Fabric body panels right sides together, aligning all edges.
  2. Pin along both side edges and the bottom edge.
  3. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch down one side seam.
  4. Crucial: For the bottom seam, leave an opening! Stitch for about 3 inches (7.6 cm) from one side, then leave a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) opening in the middle of the bottom seam. This opening is essential for turning the bag right side out later. Stitch for another 3 inches (7.6 cm) to the other side seam. Backstitch well at the beginning and end of the stitched sections.
  5. Stitch up the second side seam.
  6. Press your seams open.
  7. Box the Corners of Lining Bag: Box the corners of the lining bag in the exact same way you did for the main bag (refer to Step 3). Result: Your lining bag is now constructed, with a turning opening at the bottom. Keep it wrong side out.

Step 5: Install Closure (if using Magnetic Snap)

  • This is the best time to install a magnetic snap if you're using one.
  • On one of your lining panels, measure down from the top edge about 2-3 inches (5-7.6 cm) and find the horizontal center. Mark where the prongs of the snap will go.
  • Cut small slits for the prongs, insert the snap, and use the washer to secure the prongs. Repeat for the other half of the snap on the opposite lining panel.


Step 6: Join Main Bag and Lining (The "Bag-in-a-Bag" Method)

  1. Ensure your main bag body is right side out.
  2. Ensure your lining bag body is wrong side out (with the bottom opening).
  3. Carefully insert the main bag body into the lining bag body.
    • The right sides of both bags should be facing each other.
    • Align the side seams of the main bag with the side seams of the lining bag.
    • Align the top raw edges of the main bag and the lining bag all around the entire opening.
    • Pin securely all around the top edge, matching seams.
  4. Using a 1/2" (1.27 cm) seam allowance, stitch all the way around the entire top opening of the bag. Go slowly and carefully, especially over the bulky handle attachments. Backstitch at the beginning and end.
  5. Trim & Clip: Trim the seam allowance at the top down to about 1/4" (0.6 cm) to reduce bulk. If you have any slight curves, or just for neatness, clip small notches into the seam allowance.

Step 7: Turn Bag Right Side Out & Finish

  1. Reach through the opening you left in the bottom seam of the lining.
  2. Carefully pull the entire bag (main body, lining, handles) through this opening until it is right side out. Take your time pushing out all corners and ensuring everything is aligned.
  3. Close the Lining Opening: Press the raw edges of the opening in the bottom of the lining under by 1/2" (1.27 cm). Align the pressed edges and pin them together. Stitch this opening closed by machine (very close to the folded edge) or by hand using an invisible ladder stitch for a cleaner finish.
  4. Push the lining down into the bag.
  5. Final Press & Topstitch: Carefully press the entire top edge of the bag, making sure the lining is tucked neatly inside and not showing from the outside.
    • Topstitch all around the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8" (0.3 cm) from the edge. This final topstitching secures the lining in place, gives a professional finish, and helps the bag hold its shape. Use a slightly longer stitch length for topstitching (e.g., 3.0-3.5mm).

V. Optional Simple Enhancements:

  • Simple Slip Pocket: Before assembling the lining (Step 4), create a simple rectangle pocket (e.g., 8"x8"). Hem the top edge, then fold and press under side and bottom edges. Topstitch to one of your lining panels before sewing the lining side seams.
  • Keychain Loop: Before joining main and lining (Step 6), fold a 4" piece of webbing in half to form a loop. Insert it into one of the side seams of the main bag (right side in), ensuring the raw edges are aligned with the bag's raw edge. Stitch it in place within the seam allowance.
  • Simple Toggle Closure: If using a toggle, sew the toggle button onto the outside of the front main panel (before joining main and lining). Create a loop from elastic or a fabric strip. Attach the loop to the inside of the back main panel's top edge (within the seam allowance) before joining main and lining.
  • Basic Zipper Closure (Advanced "Simple"):
    • Cut two additional strips of pre-quilted fabric (e.g., 20" wide x 3" high).
    • Install the zipper between these two strips, similar to how a garment zipper is installed (right sides together, stitch, press, topstitch).
    • Then, instead of sewing the main bag directly to the lining at the top, you'd sew the zipper panel between the main bag and the lining, creating a separate top band with the zipper. This adds complexity but results in a fully closable bag.

You've now created a sturdy and stylish quilted travel bag! Enjoy using it for your next adventure.

Video Tutorial Here



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